Thanks for the reply, Paul,
When the ignition problem occurs, the ignition light is dim from the
second the switch is turned on. At the times when normal starting occurs,
the light is very bright when the switch is turned on and dims only
slightly when the switch is turned further and the engine turns over.
With reference to the exhaust hose, the only source of vacuum I have is a
1/4" tubing connection from the vacuum advance on my distributor to the
mikuni carbs. Any recommendation on how to get proper negative pressure
on the hose from the tappet cover? My engine is not fitted with an air
cleaner.
Thanks again for your always insightful advice.
BillS
On Tue, 4 Nov 2003 14:52:12 -0000 "Telewest \(PH\)"
<paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
> The later 18V should have a pipe or pipes from the carbs to the oil
> separator/flame trap on the front tappet cover and this applies a
> constant
> level of suction to the crankcase when the engine is running.
> Non-emissions
> cars then had a vented, filtered and restricted oil filler cap to
> let a
> limited amount of filtered air into the system and so provide
> through-flow
> ventilation. Emissions cars had a non-vented cap and a restricted
> vent on
> the rear of the rocker cover that was piped to the charcoal canister
> and
> thence to the open air. If there is no port on the carb to suck in
> this
> pipe then you could route it to the air cleaner, so at least it will
> consume
> the vapours, but that will not ventilate the crankcase and you are
> likely to
> get condensation and corrosion particular in colder weather. Very
> early
> cars had the rocker cover piped to the air cleaner and an open tube
> on the
> tappet chest down by the bottom of the engine, often referred to as
> a draft
> tube. Opinion differs as to which way fumes travelled under
> various
> conditions, but again it didn't provide positive ventilation.
>
> Does the light glow at normal brightness with just the ignition on
> and dim
> right down when you turn to start? If so it sounds like a bad
> connection
> somewhere, possibly at the batteries or where the ground strap bolts
> to the
> body, or where the brown join the battery cable at the solenoid. If
> it's
> dimmer than normal with just the ignition on what happens when you
> turn the
> lights on? If no change then it sounds like the switch or its
> connections,
> if it dims right down then main connections as described before.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Snyder" <wtsnyder@juno.com>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 1:54 PM
> Subject: Exhaust Hoses
>
>
> > Hello list. I have a '72 BGT with a later 18V engine circa 1979.
> The ZS
> > Carbs have been replaced with Mikuni carbs (similar to Webers). On
> the
> > front left side of the engine block is a cover/oil separator with
> a hose
> > attachment. I believe the opposite end of this hose originally fed
> back
> > to the carbs. My hose goes from the cover back across the valve
> cover and
> > just stops at an open end. The problem is that after the engine is
> warm a
> > nasty smelling smoke comes from the hose that filters through the
> > firewall into the cockpit. Where should I route this hose? Or is
> it okay
> > to cap it?
> >
> > Second problem: Usually when starting this car, I turn on the
> ignition
> > and the ignition light shines brightly. I turn the ignition key
> further
> > and the engine cranks. Occasionally, when the ignition is turned,
> the
> > ignition light glows at < half strength and the engine will not
> turn
> > over. The battery is fully charged. Is this a fault in the
> ignition
> > switch itself, or where should I start looking?
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