most of this has already been covered but since i did this a little
over a year ago I'll put in my two cents.
the only real surprise for me was that i needed to replace the standoff
on the horizontal shelf above the firewall for the accelerator cable
outer. the one on the '78 was too big for my new accelerator cable.
i hooked up my anti-run on valve via a T-fitting in the vacuum line to
the distributor, but this won't work unless you eliminate or bypass the
Transmission-Controlled Spark Advance.
I put my choke nob on the left in the switch blank above the hazard
switch. It was the easiest place to route the cable.
I wish i'd put it on the right-hand side because i am not agile enough
to operating the choke with my right hand while driving. :-) i just put
a washer on either side of the blank switch hole. the front on i
"shaved" the sides off and the back one had to be really thin one
because the choke cable didn't have enough thread for a fender washer
on both sides.
for the heater hose i just bought a A/C hose repair kit. It is an short
aluminum tube with two hose clamps. i fitted one in to the "T" in the
lower radiator hose ( the one going to the top of the heater core ) and
got the heater pipe from an earlier MG and routed the heater hose as
usual in a twin carb MG.
you may need to replace the manifold studs. the ones on the one-piece
manifold were not long enough, but YMMV depending on the thickness of
your exhaust and intake flanges.
I don't know if you saw the discussion about "stub stacks" but the
"ALLOY BACK PLATE ADAPTOR" MOSS # 372-380 actually functions as a short
velocity stack. if you install your carbs with out something like the
"stub stack" that APT sells(aptfast.com) you will actually reduce the
amount of air that can flow through the carbs. I highly recommend doing
this. i would also consider replacing the throttle plates with ones
that do not have the "poppet valve". I also fitted the maniflow
exhaust header and this fit easily to my stock exhaust.
I converted my car march of last year and I very pleased with the
results.
PS please feel free to contact me off list have any additional
questions.
On Sunday, October 5, 2003, at 10:49 PM, MonteMorris wrote:
> Since the ZS is running very rich and getting 12 MPG, I'm getting
> ready to
> trade the ZS carb in the 79B (desmogged) for HIF's out of a 74B parts
> car. I
> have the carbs, manifold, heat shield, and exhaust system. I also have
> the
> round Accessory foam air cleaners, Moss part # 223-230, that several
> listers
> are using.
> But, of course I have a few questions before I start tackling it:
> 1. On the 79 there is a tube that goes from the front of the manifold
> to the
> brakes. What do I do with this on the 74 manifold?
> 2. Do I hook up the anti-run on valve?
> 3. How do I hook up a manual choke: Where have others put the knob on
> the
> dash? I have a rectangular blanking plate on the left side of the dash
> just
> above the hazard switch and one on the right side just above the fan
> switch.
> I believe someone said put the choke know in place of the dash
> reostat, but
> mine works. If I use one of the blanking plates, how do I accomplish
> this?
> 4. Here in NE Missouri it gets COLD, should/could I hook up the carb
> induction heater from the ZS to the HIF's?
> 5. I've seen the Chicagoland ZS to HS carb swap pictures, but the HIF
> manifold and plumbing are different; does anyone have a step-by-step
> procedure for this?
> 6. In the middle of the HIF manifold off the parts car is a small tube
> bent
> at 90 degrees and is plugged off. Where did this go, and do I need to
> hook
> it up again?
> 7. Will I need to fabricate anything?
>
> Paul Root has given me some advise and I believe that Mike Janacek
> said he
> has done the conversion, but anyone else please feel free to chime in
> or
> point me to a website.
> Thanks,
> Monte
> 79B, Carmine
> 67B, BRG
> 74 Rust, parts car
--
"Alle Menschen werden Bruder"
Henry D. Reynolds - Chat Operations
mail: hdr@halsoft.com - home: 512.448.3617 - cell: 512.699.8658
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