I wasn't aware the handbrake was adjustable, the shop manual just implies
the handbrake will be right after the shoe adjuster is set. Do you have to
take the passenger seat out to make this adjustment?
Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@insightbb.com
52 MGTD - NEMGTR #11470
71 MGB - NAMGBR #7-3336
----- Original Message -----
From: "Telewest (PH)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>; "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem Solved - Help, What did I do wrong?
> Your new shoes do appear to be different, but whether the old ones were
> incorrect and things had been 'adjusted' to suit making the correct ones a
> poor fit, or whether the new shoes are incorrect, is a moot point.
>
> If the new shoes are longer then the footbrake should be OK even if the
> handbrake isn't. If you can get to that situation then you can sort the
> handbrake out by 'adjusting' the operating levers by welding up and filing
> out the groove the shoes ride in. What you are looking for is for the arm
> that the cable connects to to be parallel to the back plate when the
> handbrake is on. That way you will get maximum leverage and hence braking
> force. If the lever is too far off parallel the force from the cable is
> reduced. Once you get that right you can set the adjustment at the handle
> end of the handbrake to give the correct number of clicks. I like to have
> the first click giving no drag so I can be sure there is none when the
> handle is right down, braking effect coming in with the second and
> subsequent clicks.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
> To: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 4:09 PM
> Subject: Brake Problem Solved - Help, What did I do wrong?
>
>
> > My brakes are back in business. I put the old brake shoes back on (the
> ones
> > with the extra thick linings), and now my handbrake kicks in right away,
> and
> > my pedal is high and firm. After comparing the old and new parts, I
> believe
> > the lack of handbrake had nothing to do with the ID of the brake drum,
or
> > the thickness of the linings. The new shoes are an eighth inch longer on
> one
> > end. This was causing the cylinder to hold the shoe ends apart, instead
of
> > the handbrake lever (in the resting position). This left an eighth inch
> gap
> > in the slot the lever goes in. It took a whole inch of cable pull to
close
> > this gap before the shoes would start to move. With the old shoes there
is
> > no gap, the shoes start to move as soon as you pull on the handbrake.
> >
> > So which shoes are right, the old or the new? They clearly don't have
the
> > same dimensions. My old shoes have markings indicating that they are
> > original shoes that have been relined. Next time I buy brake shoes, I'm
> > going to look for re-manufactured ones.
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