Fully unbolt. In some cases the bolt came out before the bolt would loosen.
Just meant that the nut was tighter on the bolt than the bolt was tight in
the block.
He then used a bit of oil on the threads. Pretty much the same reasoning as
others have stated. To get and even amount of friction on all surfaces so
that the torque reading would be accurate.
Harold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Telewest (PH)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <WSpohn4@aol.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: Re: head retorquing question
> Fully unbolt? Or just unlock it? I have always just unlocked it i.e.
> keeping most of the original tension on. I would have thought that fully
> loosening would tend to *cause* warping.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <WSpohn4@aol.com>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 8:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Re: head retorquing question
>
>
> > In a message dated 04/09/2003 11:25:05 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > owner-mgs-digest@autox.team.net writes:
> >
> >
> > > watched Twist do this very thing at the 2002 NAMGBR get together.
> > >
> > > He would unbolt the head bolts one at a time in order, then re-torque
> the
> > > bolt. He never had any more than on bolt loose at a time.
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