With a test-lamp polarities are immaterial, but if you have the original
coil it will have SW and CB terminals. Originally there would have been a
white from the ignition on the SW (ignition SWitch) and a white/black on the
CB (Contact Breaker) from the distributor, but if converted to negative
ground the coil should have been reversed (but the engine will still run
even if not). Later coils have +ve and -ve terminals. You don't have to
disconnect any wires to do this test, and if you connect one side of the
test-lamp to ground then you should have a steady glow when connecting the
other side to the white wire on the coil and a pulsing glow when connected
to the distributor wire on the coil.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Cianciotti" <jmc987@earthlink.net>
To: <ckotting@wideopenwest.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 1:35 AM
Subject: Re: Car won't start, dies, or runs fine (Please help)
> Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Went out last night to work
> on the car and it started up on the first crank. (Isn't that always the
> way?) Checked everything I could with a running engine. But when it
> dies again, I want to be prepared. Does any of this change when you've
> converted to negative ground?
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