Bullwinkle wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> I still think it's an ignition or electrical problem.
>
> Make sure the battery isn't failing or you have poor connections at the
> battery cables.
>
> A richer mixture, as when under load, is harder to ignite. So while an
> engine may run fine at idle, it will miss under acceleration or high
> road speeds.
>
> Start with a new capacitor, and then perhaps another new capacitor.
> I've seen new one's out of the box fail, or fail shortly after
> installation. After that, try a new coil.
>
> Remove the distributer cap complete with leads and plug caps. Check
> with a VOM meter. You should have no resistance between a plug cap and
> the contact inside the cap.
>
> Try thoroughly washing the cap and rotor with soap & water. Dry with
> rags, compressed air and a hair dryer. This will temporarily clean off
> any carbon tracking if that's the problem.
> Inspect the cap and rotor carefully for cracks using reading glasses or
> magnifying glasses.
>
> Replace the low tension wire between the coil and distributer.
>
> Make sure the engine is properly grounded. A poorly grounded engine
> will cause low starter voltage and low ignition voltage. The ground
> strap is on the LH side under a clutch housing bolt and a tower bolt.
This reminds me of something that happened once on the way back from
Oklahoma City a few years ago in the Cooper S and once on the track in the
MGA during a practice at Harewood Acres in Ontario, Canada, around 1965. On
both occasions, the problem was that the wee braided ground strap in the
distributor had come loose from where it is normally spot-welded to the
baseplate. It would start fine and run under low load fine, but would do
all sorts of weird misfires under load, getting worse as the plugs got
fuel-soaked from all the misfires.
Worth checking for.
-Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com
--
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