The nut has to be clamped it in a fixed position between the flange at the
base of the pin and the washer under the nut. Tightened up like this there
should be some clearance between the sides of the arm and the flange and
washer, but only just, otherwise the arm could move forward and back too
much so altering the castor angle. This also means that movement in the arm
is taken up by flex in the rubber, and not the inner bush rotating on the
pin, which further means the nut must not be fully tightened until the
weight of the front is on the wheels and the suspension its compressed to
its normal resting position. Fitting a shorter nut shouldn't in itself
cause a problem, although I am surprised you have to. I would look for
dimensional differences between the old and new bushes or something
preventing the new one fully seating. If the nut is not so far down the
pin, then since the arm is the same (presumably) then that implies the bush
is longer, which will allow excessive fore and aft movement of the A-arm.
But check there are no burrs near the base of the pin stopping the bush
fully seating.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BarrMark262@aol.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 4:35 AM
Subject: Problem with V8 lower A arm bushes
> Hi List: Tonite I attached the lower A arms with the new V8 bushes, and
found
> them to "seat" a flat or two before the nut and cotter pin can be lined
up.
> I remember a similar problem with one of my Tr's, so I purchased a
> castellated nut that was not so "tall, shorter front to back" and I was
able
> to fit the pin and still allow for movement of the A arm in an up and down
> motion.
> Do any of you see a problem with this?
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