I'd rather not "close off the area"!
IMHO the butterfly spindles should be oiled regulary.
After closing with the JB Wled job, this cannot be done anymore.
The list's opinion please...
Cheers,
Hans
'71 BGT
(I had this rebush part done by a carb specialist - $40 incl. parts)
----- Original Message -----
From: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>
To: "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 5:26 AM
Subject: high idle-solved!
> I have the high idle problem solved. For those of you who diagnosed an air
> leak-you win the "help the idiot diagnose the problem" contest! Thanks to
> all who offered advice and were patient with me.
> Air was leaking around the throttle plate at the shaft/plate/bushing
> junction. I caused the problem when I rebushed the carb and installed the
> new bushings (supplied in Moss rebuild kit). The bushings were about 1/4
> inch short on one side of the carb and about 1/8" inch short of reaching
all
> the way through the body on the other side. So when I installed them I
made
> it look "pretty" from the outside by placing them flush with the outside
of
> the body, not the inside of the carb body. This left an area around the
> shaft that air could leak through. I solved the problem, hopefully
> permanently, by using JB Weld to close off the area, then shaving off the
> small amount of epoxy that got onto the bushing using a new 5/16" drill
bit.
> I now have them reinstalled and adjusted and they seem to be working real
> well.
> Any other novice mechanic that is thinking of using Jake and Ann Snyder's
> instrucitons about rebushing carbs using the home-made reamer, should take
> note of the above; it will save you a lot of time and heartache. I believe
> the Snyder's article mentions the proper length of bushings, but that is
not
> what was in the rebuild kit. I'm sure any "real" mechanic that understands
> carburation theory would have known to install the bushings in the proper
> way.
> Thanks again,
> Monte
> 79B, Carmine
> 67B, BRG
> 74 1/2 Rust, parts car
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