Larry:
I think you may have installed the 0-ring stem seals incorrectly. They are
installed on top of the valve cap right under the two collets. There is no
way that they can split or fall out. All they do is stop the oil that pools
on top of the valve keeper from sliding down the valve stem.
The MGB didn't really have what we think of as valve stem seals. Umbrella
seals are a popular addition, but I've heard arguments on both sides about
the possibility of stuck valves due to lack of lubrication. Jaguar went the
middle road and just installed umbrella seals on the intakes.
> First, the "OEM" o-ring valve stem seals aren't worth hooey.
> When I went
> back in to retorque and adjust valves, two of them had split
> and were found
> sitting on top of the head, while another one is wedged
> between its valve
> guide and the spring. Can't see all the rest, but first
> chance I get they're
> coming outta there and the FelPro umbrella seals are going
> in, if I can find
> them (supposedly FelPro #SS 70373).
No offense taken.
I'll have someone from QC take a look at the elbows. I take it that this
was the 68-76 replacement without smog bracket.
I've got a feeling this is one of those embarrassing items that is still not
good quality.
> Next, no offense meant to Moss, Kelvin, but that aluminum replacement
> thermostat elbow doesn't work either. Its stud holes are too
> large, coolant
> finds its way out of them, and while messing with mine, it
> just gave up and
> cracked. Back to plan A of cutting/grinding the air pump tab off my
> original, which seals like a champ.
>
> Lastly, what's "normal" blow-by on a fresh motor? I've got
> small amounts of
> oil seaping out of the dipstick tube and some in the air
> cleaner housing.
> I've read lots of posts here and on the MGOC BBS archive
> about using less
> premium oil for break-in, and how to run it in to ensure the
> rings seat.
Seating the rings is an important process.
> One more question: any opinions on later ('69-71) HS4 SU's vs
> HIFs? My car's
> a '72 18V set up with a Weber DGV. While it's dead-nuts
> reliable, I'd sorta
> like to go back to SU's. My old HIFs are in a box someplace, but I'm
> thinking of HS4's instead (more tunable?).
I prefer the HS series, but there is nothing really wrong with the HIF, and
technically it is a superior carb.
Kelvin.
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