I managed to pop the lever that moves the jet off the controlling
screw on my HIF 44 carb. I went through a big thrash last week to fix
it. It's a glorious pain in the butt with the blower, because you have
to take everything off. You have to pull the whole
blower/manifold/carb assembly because you can't just pull the carb,
and I determined that even if you bend the heat sheild out of the way,
working on the underside of the carb is damn near impossible. And of
course, once you have the intake manifold off, you really ought to
change the gasket, which means pulling the header and the studs.
By the way, getting the stepped washers back on the studs with the
tube for the heater still on (gotta make a new tube to get some more
room to work) is a pain. I found that I can dangle the washers on a
loop of thread to get them lined up, then push them on with another
hand snaked in from below.
Once I got everything apart I found the problem, I had gotten some
grit between the jet and the tube that guides the jet and that just
hung things up. Cleanliness is next to not having to do the whole damn
job over again.
In case anyone else wants to profile carb needles I took some
measurements of needle movement (relative to even with the bridge),
the measurements are:
turns dist 1 dist 2
0.5 .032 .036
1 .050 .047
1.5 .064 .069
2.0 .088 .090
2.5 .116 .110
3.0 .124 .123
3.5 .159 .143
4.0 .159 .159
It's not quite linear, tangents and all that, but it's about .042" per
turn of the jet adjusting screw.
--
I've found something worse than oldies station that play the music I used to
listen to. Oldies stations that play the "new" music I used to complain about.
lrc@red4est.com http://www.red4est.com/lrc
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