Ross Bateman wrote:
> Hi
>
> Well I have finally started the rebuild on my 68 B.
>
> Steering:
> Last night I started setting up the steering. I do not have a balljoint
> splitter and could not separate the balljoint no matter what I tried. So I
> ended up loosening up the small clip on the gaiter and then the large one
> (spilling oil all over the place because I did not RTFM very well). I then
> turned the tie-rod by hand and vice grip into the balljoint.
How I did it was to back the nut to the end and then put a jack stand
under it right next to the connection, they lower the car a bit so there
is positive pressure on it. Then with a Big -ah- hammer bang the heck
out if it until it popped.
After I did that, I got advise on how to do it. Two Big hammers, hold
one on one side of the steering arm and hit the other side with the
hammer. What this does is temporarily deform the hole thus popping the
tie-rod end out.
As to the pickle fork, mostly all that does is rip up the rubber anyway.
I replaced mine since I tore the rubbers, but one of them really needed
it anyway.
> Alignment is not an issue yet, but I just want to get as close as possible.
If you counted the number of turns it took to take them out, then put it
back the same way, you'll get pretty close.
You can also take 4 jack stands or other stands make sure they are
square. Then run 2 lines parallel with the car in between. The lines
should be the same height as the center of your wheel. Then you can
measure from the edge of the wheel to the string. If you get one wheel's
front and rear edge exactly the same distance from the string, you can
then get the 1/8 to 1/16 tow in by getting the rear of the other tire
the 1/8 or 1/16 less than the front for toe in.
Centering the wheel is then move both tie-rods the same number of turns
until centered.
> My question is, turning the tie-rod in this fashion should not damage
> anything should it?
Nope, they'll be fine.
>>From all the exploded views I have looked at, the tie-rod should just have
> turned in the ballhousing.
>
> Front Wheel Bearings:
> I have been watching the front wheel bearing posts intently because this is
> one of the jobs I am busy with. Last night I started fitting the Driver's
> Side hub and wheel bearings.
>
> Lindsay Porters MGB Restoration manual suggests that you fit the whole
> assembly together and then remove shims until you feel a little friction
> when turning the hubs. Once you get to this stage, you fit a 3 thou shim.
> I fitted the bearings and shims and did the above until it felt like
> friction to me (the bearings made a slight scraping sound) I then fitted the
> 3 thou shim and tightened to 40 lbs of torque. The hub turned with no noises
> and smoothly but you can not spin it (if that makes sense), it is still
> quite tight. I then fitted another 3 thou shim and tightened up, but the hub
> felt to loose to me and had a little play.
>
> I am not sure how freely the hub should turn ???
>
> Thanks for any advice,
>
> Ross Bateman
> British Sports Cars in South Africa
> www.rcsa.co.za
> ____________________________________
> This isn't life in the fast lane,
> it's life in the oncoming traffic.
--
Paul T. Root E/Mail: proot@iaces.com
600 Stinson Blvd N.E., Fl 1S PAG: +1 (877) 693-7155
Minneapolis, MN 55413 WRK: +1 (612) 664-3385
FAX: +1 (612) 664-4779
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