> I'd suggest a thorough cleanup of the carb, and check/replace the
main fuel
> filter.
When I got it the thing was seriously gunked up. I've cleaned twice,
and think I better do it again. I also fitted a new fuel filter, the
clear plastic kind, which lets me know I am getting clean fuel.
It sounds like the float valve is not seating correctly allowing
> the float level to be way too high flooding the rear cylinders.
I've been thinking along the same lines. Isn't the needle supposed to
be spring loaded or something? Mine seems to fall right out of it's
holder, and I sure don't see any spring, unless I'm just missing it.
Also make
> sure your fuel pressure is not too high. If you are running the
stock SU
> fuel pump, this should not be a problem, but if you have some kind of
> aftermarket pump, this could be your culprit.
Nope, stock pump.
>
> When cleaning out a DCOE all you really need is a gasket kit, and an
inlet
> valve.
I'll buy both this morning.
>
> The carb is very easy to dismantle to where it can be cleaned.
Leave the
> throttle spindles in place and just shoot cleaner through the ball
bearings.
Will do.
>
> Don't forget to clean the inlet filter in the carb top cover.
Hmmm.. Haven't seen an inlet filter in my first two attempts. Maybe I
need to look harder.
Check the
> float chamber for rust and scale. You may have rust in the fuel
tank which
> is causing the float valve to not seal, in which case a better
filter may be
> needed.
There was more of a congealed goo in there than rust. The car had sat
for some time. Don't know if I got it all, but I think I did. Like I
said, I'll be cleaning it again, though.
>
> For the MGB you can get by with the smaller float valves, but
chances are
> all you need to do is clean the one that you have.
I'm not following you here... by smaller float valve do you mean the
175? Should I get a 200? Like I said, I really don't trust my current
one, so for $15, it's peace of mind.
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|