Barney,
This would seem most logical. Except since the only luck I have is bad
luck, so if I have a 50-50 chance, its a sure bet, I'll do the wrong one.
Except that I have done both of these before. Yes, I had the distributer
gear drive backwards before so I made sure I put it on right this time or
so I thought. And yes, I reversed the clutch disk once a few years ago.
When I started mating the engine/transmission together, it just slipped
right together so quick that I realized that I didn't check direction and
sure enough, it was the wrong way.
This time, the mating was more difficult than usual (perhaps a sign) but
I'm sure I checked direction and I used one of those alignment tools. The
parts were in storage for two years but not stuck together.
Oh well. You saved me trying to do some reverse bleed or something. Its not
that big of a deal to pull them apart. My o/d transmission is designed to
pull out while the engine is in place but in this case I just need a
separation. It might take a good part of a day to inspect it and put it
back together. And I still have at least another four months until
convertible season.
David
At 12:03 AM 1/5/2003 -0600, Barney Gaylord wrote:
>At 04:16 PM 1/4/03 -0700, David Councill wrote:
>>My 72B, ....
>>.... the clutch doesn't work .... But the lever does move a good half
>>inch, maybe 3/4", ....
>
>1/2" of travel at the slave is plenty. The hydraulics are fine. The
>problem is inside of the bellhousing.
>
>If it clutch was assembled and left in storage for a long time (especially
>damp storage), it's possible that the friction disk is stuck to the
>flywheel (or to the pressure plate).
>
>But the most usual cause of this problem right after assembly is having
>the clutch disk in backwards. If the raised side of the hub on the disk
>is facing forwards it interferes with the flywheel bolts, and the clutch
>won't release. Cure is to part the engine from the gearbox (or vice
>versa), remove pressure plate and reverse the clutch disk.
>
>>.... the engine has very little power .... weird thing here is the firing
>>order. Sure, its supposed to be 1-3-4-2. Is that clockwise on the
>>distributer cap?
>
>No. Anti-clockwise.
>
>>On my 67BGT, its anti-clockwise but when I set it that way on the 72, it
>>will not fire at all. Reverse 2 and 3 (to make it 1-3-4-2 clockwise) and
>>it starts right up but is very slow to rev up (still acts like its
>>running on three cylinders).
>
>You have the distributor drive gear in 180 degrees out of position, so all
>four cylinders get the spark on the exhaust strole rather than on
>compression. When you switch wires 2 & 3 it runs on two cylinders. If
>you also switch wires 1 & 4 it will run on all four cylinders. The #4
>plug wire will then be closest to #1 spark plug, and #1 will be opposite
>across the dizzy cap. Firing order is still the same, 1-3-4-2, but the
>rotor will point southwest for #1. The proper cure is to remove the dizzy
>and the base mount from the block, remove the dizzy drive gear to rotate
>it 180 degrees and reinstall everything. That will put the rotor pointing
>at #1 plug on teh compression stroke.
>
>
>>I guess I was due. This is my third engine rebuild. The other two went
>>much smoother (well, except .... the time the distributer was off 180
>degrees).
>
>Well, you did it again. Live and learn.
>
>>But first things first - and without a clutch, it matters not how the
>>engine runs. Any clutch advice?
>
>Have fun pulling the engien again. Or maybe on that car you could pull
>the gearbox without removing the engine. My money says your clutch disk
>is backwards.
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
>http://MGAguru.com
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