Also, remember there are two attachments to consider. One is the long
sideways bolt that tightens the clamp onto the distributor body. The other
is the two small bolts that hold the clamping plate to the side of the
block. It might be best to start from scratch, and remove the distributor
and the clamping plate from the engine. Then, on the workbench, test fit the
clamp onto the base of the distributor. Looking at it from the bottom, see
if the housing is crushed or damaged where the clamp squeezes it. This is a
common problem caused by overtightening, and it might explain why the
distributor won't stay put. It may very well not be repairable, and you will
have to look for another distributor body.
Some practical advice about this clamp: once I have my timing more or less
sorted out, henceforth I never loosen this clamp. I undo the other two bolts
when I need to remove the distributor for any reason. The holes for these
bolts have enough slop to make small timing adjustments, and you can open
them up with a small round file for an even greater range. And you have the
vernier adjuster on the dizzy itself for fine tuning. But the awkward design
and placement of the clamp bolt make it very difficult to tighten correctly
in position, and the distributor body at this point is a thin shell and
cannot take much clamping force.
on 8/7/02 3:04 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren@byu.net wrote:
> Make sure you are not trying to put it in 180 degrees out of alignment.
> Before you say it isn't possible, loosen it up, rotate it and see if
> it drops the rest of the way in...
>
> GMGoodman@aol.com wrote:
>
>> 72' mgb....why won't my distibutor drop all the way into the block.....when
>> it does...and timed' runs great....but lifts out of block and then engine
>> dies because dist. shaft is not turning...can't get it to drop in far enogh
>> to tighten down with clap j goodman
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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