I forgot about that book. I have a copy of it on my book shelf, right next
to Paul VanVlalkenburg's "Race Car Engineering and Mechanics." The V-link
is home made and mounts to the bottom of the SPAX mounting plates, these are
roughly parallel with the bottom of the diff. The other ends are about 2
inches below the bottom of the floor pans.
james
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Causey <jcausey@whidbey.net>
To: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: 13 April, 2002 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: Suspension tuning
> The answer might depend upon where the point of the v-link is
> located, since that will determine the height of your rear roll center.
> If it is at the bottom of the differential, you probably won't need a
> rear anti-sway bar. Did you build your own V-link, or is someone
> finally manufacturing them?
>
> You might want to take a look at a book by Fred Puhn, HOW TO
> MAKE YOUR CAR HANDLE, especially the section on negating
> rear roll steer. The example is a Ford Pinto, but it applies to the
> MGB as well. You would need new rear spring hangers, possibly
> de-arching your rear springs (unless they are already arch-less),
> and lowering blocks.
>
> If you drive hard enough so that any of this makes a difference, you
> will undoubtedly need a limited slip differential, too. If you add a
> rear bar, under hard cornering , the 'B will lift the unladen wheel,
> and with an open diff, you will no longer be putting power to the
> ground. It may even do this without the rear bar if your rear
> suspension is stiff enough.
>
> Regards,
> Jerry
>
> > This rear bar is the question; I have always heard that putting a
> > rear bar on a CBB is a really bad thing. I'm sure this is no longer
> > the case at stage 3 tune (it is also listed for stage 2) since it is
> > in the table.
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