Folks,
While I use full synthetic oil everywhere I can (my Ducati ran Motul, and my
Buell's blood was Redline 20/50 -- after 5,000kms break-in on mineral-oil,
of course), from garage-work experience, I personally don't recommend
products like Slick50.
We could never bore-out engines we new used Slick50. I don't remember why (I
was in high-school then), but something about that additive hardened the
bore so it couldn't be touched. I don't remember if the blocks could be
re-sleeved though.
This evidence is anecdotal, but our un-scientific suggested that 100% of
Slick50 engines couldn't be re-bored.
David Randall
Cambridge, ON, Canada
'67 'B-GT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Maynard Hirsch
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 10:32 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE Slick 50
Putting synthetic oil in a 60K engine is not a waste, unless the engine is
leaking so badly that it becomes economically unwise.
Synthetic oil does not cause increased leaks. What happens is that the
synthetic oil has a greater rate of flow so that a drop of oil that would
be,
for example, 1 inch wide with mineral oil would be 2 inches with synthetic,
but the volume of oil would be the same.
I don't use additives, but if I would, I would use only additives that do
not
have to be shaken before installation. If the Teflon, or whatever, settles
out in the container, it will in the engine.
The majority of engine wear occurs on a cold startup. Synthetic oils have a
greater ability to stay on metal parts then mineral oil, and this is the
major
reason synthetic oils offer less engine wear. If Teflon is carried by the
oil, wouldn't it make sense that the Teflon drains back into the pan with
the
oil? BTW, DuPont sued to stop Slick 50 from claiming Teflon reduced engine
wear.
Although I suppose you could add Slick 50 to synthetic oil if you wanted to,
but the carrier in Slick 50, and as far as I know, all other addtives, is
mineral oil.
Maynard Hirsch
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