I went through this on my 74 1/2.
I burned up four from a local re-builder before I threw my hands up and went
to the local MG shop, (Motorhead) and asked what the deal was.
Apparently he went through this at his shop some ten years ago, with the
same re-builder and when the failure rate got to around 90% he took some to
another re-builder and had him investigate.
They said that the failures were caused by the re-builder using a cheaper
grade slip ring on the armature then was originally fitted.
Once identified, a correction was made and now the failure rate is around 1
in 20.
Maybe the place you're buying from is doing the same thing?
The shop that he now uses for his re-builds is Arlington Armature in
Springfield, Virginia. Cost is about the same as the alts from Moss's.
Hope this helps?
Scott Allen
52 TD
74 1/2 BGT
>From: Michael Jose <mwjose@cox.net>
>Reply-To: Michael Jose <mwjose@cox.net>
>To: mgs@autox.team.net
>Subject: alternators 2
>Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 06:57:32 -0700
>
>By "going through" i mean that i put a brand new one on, rebuilt by a
>specialty company in phoenix which does them for the shop i go to, and
>then a few weeks or a few days later, the car dies. I bring the car
>into the shop, and the battery is not charging. I put a different
>alternator on, check to see it's charging, it is, and away i go. A few
>weeks to a few days later, the car dies again. Check for charging,
>none, put a new alternator on and it charges. I dont' know yet what
>exactly is failing in them. Over the time I've had the car, I've gone
>through maybe a dozen, mostly cheap Checker ones, but I've now gone
>through 4 or 5 of these high quality rebuilts.
>This question is driving me crazy, and the car is worthless until I get
>this solved.
>Please, does anyone have any shot in the dark ideas for me?
>Mike Jose
>79 B
>Phoenix
>
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