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Re: Dist. replacement.

To: "Wil Boucher" <william@greenmgb.com>,
Subject: Re: Dist. replacement.
From: <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 09:26:29 -0000
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wil Boucher" <william@greenmgb.com>
To: "MG Mail list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 12:06 AM
Subject: RE: Dist. replacement.


> A consistent comment I received was that the Distributor could be to blame
> for the hesitation, and stumbling, but not for the engine dying
completely,
>
> So where should I begin looking for this one? (after I have the new
> distributor in place)

If the (electric) tach instantly drops to zero with the misfire or cutting
out you have an ignition LT problem.  If the tach still registers it is HT
or fuel.  If you can rig up one of the old-fashioned timing lights so you
can see it flashing whilst driving along you will be able to tell which.

> My gut (it only has a little less knowledge than I do,
> but I am learning :-) tells me it's the fuel pump, it has been getting
> louder, and yesterday, I started the engine and heard a very strange
> 'croaking' sound from the rear passenger side of the car, and there
> definitely aren't any frogs around my garage...
>
> What is a good way to test a fuel pump?

For an SU, remove a fuel pipe from a carb (watch out for a spurt from the
pipe if the ignition has been on within the last few minutes), direct it
into a decent-sized bottle, and switch on the ignition.  You should get a
regular two or three 'Ker-chunk's a second with a good jet of fuel into the
bottle with each.

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