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Re: Brake Adjusting & Bleeding (back to MG's)

To: eugeneb@nni.com, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brake Adjusting & Bleeding (back to MG's)
From: Ajhsys@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 11:20:03 EDT
In a message dated 9/12/01 10:56:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, eugeneb@nni.com 
writes:


> I suspect that the line was crushed in a flat bed incident. I can 
> not feel any real dragging, but the left brake drum gets very 
> warm to the touch (4 on the ouch scale) after 20 or so minutes 
> 

- - - - - - - - - - - -

First of all, if you used the brake pedal to stop the car, then touched the 
brake drum, it should be warm.  They BOTH should be warm.  I bet your right 
side is not adjusted correctly.  

A crushed brake pipe does need to be replaced.  You will have to bleed the 
brakes, but this is a great time to flush the system at all four corners with 
fresh brake fluid until it runs clear.  Use Castrol GT LMA or any other good 
DOT 4 brake fluid, NOT DOT 3.  DOT 5 (sillycone) can be used, but is not my 
preference for reason I do not want to bring up!  (BTDT and took the heat!)

Most listers seem to prefer the EZBleed for one-man bleeding.  I think the 
two-person method is easier!  Follow the instructions in your Haynes or 
Bentley manual for bleeding.

When you adjust the rear wheel cylinders, just turn the square adjuster until 
the wheel is difficult to rotate, then back off one flat of the adjuster.  
This is not rocket science.

Hope this helps.

Allen Hefner
SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
'77 Midget
'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport

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