Each of the problems I've encountered were either "operator error" on my
part, or some aspect of the valve train that was a little (or a lot)
messed up. A ClickAdjust still takes a little practice to use, but less
than using feeler gauges.
Here are the things I've run into using ClickAdjust on various cars:
1) Sticking adjusting screw. The adjuster screw can get built up old
oil residue that will cause it to bind on either the rocker arm or the
adjusting nut. A DPO/M who overtightened the locknut, mangling the
screw threads, will also make the screw bind. Letting the wrench handle
move while you're tightening can let the locknut contact the rocker arm,
making the screw bind just enough to fool the "big click" mechanism.
Any of the above can cause the "big click" to kick in while there is
still slack, leaving you with too much valve lash.
2) Conversely, weakened valve springs can cause you to end up with too
little valve lash, because the spring will compress slightly while
you're tightening waiting for the "big click". It may be time for new
valve springs, if that's happening. If you suspect this is happening,
just tighten until you feel the screwdriver handle starting to have a
"springy" resistance, and count clicks from there.
3) Not holding the wrench handle steady while you're counting clicks.
The wrench handle (that turns the socket for the locknut) is the point
of reference for the mechanism that makes the small clicks. Let that
move while you're counting clicks, and you'll end up too wide or too
loose (depending on the direction of movement).
4) Mis-matched adjusting screw. The ClickAdjust set up instructions
obviously depend on having all of the adjusting screws the same thread
pitch. Not so obvious is the DPO/M who tapped out the rocker arm for a
different adjusting screw with a different thread pitch. (No, I don't
know why he did that. Who can explain DPO/DPM decisions?)
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