In a message dated 7/16/01 1:51:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
pulcher@killercomputing.com writes:
> So as I am reading a lot of stuff on Silicon Brake Fuild, and since I have to
> work on the brakes anyway, I was wondering how much of a pain it would be to
> convert my system. Seems like the way to go, but never having done much
> with
>
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Well, it's been a while since we have hashed out the "dread brake fluid
thread", so here goes.
To change over to silicone fluid you must replace every rubber bit in the
brake system. Flush the master cylinder with alcohol after you take it
apart. Flush wheel cylinders and calipers with alcohol after you take them
apart. Flush all the hard brake lines with alcohol also. Rebuild MC,
calipers, wheel cylinders; replace flex hoses.
Since you have a late B, you probably do not have an inline brake light
switch, so it is not a problem. (I have a Midget, so I don't know much about
Bs.) If the car has a brake light switch that is in the brake fluid line, it
will probably cause problems with silicone fluid, so replace it with a pedal
mounted switch. If you have a proportioning valve (or whatever it's called)
it should be rebuild with new o-rings.
The reason for all this work is that silicone fluid causes seals to expand
differently than regular fluids, and since the seals are already soaked in
regular fluid, they all have to be replaced.
IMO. it is not worth the trouble in an otherwise good brake system. Rebuild
the leaking wheel cylinder (or simply replace it, they are cheap) and replace
the brake fluid with new Castrol GT LMA, or any good DOT 4 brake fluid. If
you are not sure about the flex hoses, now is the time to replace them as
well.
DOT 4 fluid is very good stuff. The only advantage silicone has is that it
will not remove paint if you get sloppy. All brake fluid should be replaced
avery 2 or 3 years.
Allen Hefner
SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
'77 Midget
'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
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