Don't use stainless fasteners in critical areas as they may also fail.
BTW, the MGA head is on and correct new studs were used (ARP) and I still felt a
couple stretch. You know the feeling when the torque wrench never clicks but
just keeps turning. I may replace those studs one at a time.
The MG now runs like a champ. As soon as I've run in the engine, it's look out
Barney!! ;-)
Well, gotta sign off for awhile TTY next Friday...have a good week.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Ron Soave wrote:
> In addition to your Haynes/Bentley manual, pick up a
> general book on engine rebuidling for $15 at any book
> store. They are far more informative, and offer a lot
> of great BTDT ideas, and explain stuff like 3 angle
> valve jobs, etc. A couple of micrometers and a dial
> indicator to check clearances, diameters, cylinder
> taper, end float, cam geometry, can remove a lot of
> suspense, too. One obvious thing that a lot of people
> don't do in their zeal is to carefully untorque
> critical bolts, like bearing shell bolts, head bolts,
> etc. Just crack them first in a logical order before
> significantly loosening them to be safe and prevent
> warping. And don't go nuts with Grade 8 hardware -
> it's very brittle, right Dave?
>
> =====
> Ron Soave
>
> The optimist says the glass is half full.
> The pessimist says the glass is half empty.
> The engineer says the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
> The British car owner says it's leaking.
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