The valves have a known design defect. They often do not close or open
fully. Bob Munchausen (sp?) living in Montana has designed a fix that
rebuilds the valve to allow full flow. Another fix he came up with was to
remove the valve and put in a new 1/4 turn 3/8" (I think) water valve that
he just opens or closes depending on season.
I borrowed his idea and came up with my own design fix. My problem was the
same as yours, hot feet. So I added __in line__ with the existing factory
valve, a new 1/4 turn valve. So that come summer I can turn the new valve
off or almost off and get cool feet. It works great, added about 8 bucks
worth of parts, and the real heater valve is still there so it can perform
it other (unintended but valuable) function. Which is to signal when it is
in need of replacement, by leaking on the distributor which causes the
engine to miss and eventually stall!!
Kind regards,
Tim
+++++++++ contact info ++++++++
Tim Economu
Senior Design Engineer
Offgrid Engineering LLC
4131 Springwater Rd.
Clinton, WA 98236 USA
phone: 360-579-2117
economu@whidbey.com
http://home.yqi.com/time/
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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