> in Cali!!.. btw Kelvin.. I'd be interested in the specs on
> your new race engine..
>
> Dennis
A number of people have expressed interest in the engine specs. So here
goes.
The engine was originally built for an SCCA E prod. race car. I purchased
the car, removed the engine, then resold the rolling chassis.
It's a very interesting motor, built in Southern CA. It has most of the
Huffaker modifications. Huge vent pipe in the front side cover, with drain
back to the deepened sump. Center bolted core plugs.
The block has been bored to fit some kind of Ford piston. A US 6 cylinder
based on the two extra pistons that came with the deal. The block has had
about 1/4" machined off the face, which means the skirt height on the
pistons is probably similar to the Lotus pistons supplied for the 1950cc
conversion.
The head had been recently overhauled and had about 1/8" removed from the
face. This caused the failure, as the water jacket on the RH side rotted
through between the round water ports, causing the head gasket seals to
fail.
The camshaft was a 300 degree duration, and Isky double valve springs,
lifters and tubular pushrods had been fitted. The rocker assembly had 1/4"
machined shims under the pedestals.
The pistons and bores were in good shape. Upon disassembly the rod bearings
were ok, but the cam had a flat lobe and there were a number of spalled
tappets. The head would be salvagable, if a solid copper gasket is used.
I chose to detune the engine, so that it can be used for drivers school and
some street use. I was aiming for good longevity, 3000 - 6500 rev band,
with an eye towards torque, rather than top end.
I fitted a head that was left over from my last race engine. It is ported
and polished, but not milled. I replaced the Isky triple valve springs with
Special Tuning heavy duty springs,(slightly stiffer than stock) and used
stock caps and o ring seals.
I installed a Piper 285 degree cam, installed 2 degrees advanced from the
107 degree recomendation. I played with the multi-slotted timing gear setup
so that I knew how it worked, then ended up using an adjustable cam gear.
I used new stock tappets and reused the tubular pushrods and rocker gear.
There was a set of 1/8" rocker pedestal spacers with the engine spares,
which I used rather than ordering new pushrods. Not optimal, but workable.
I installed a Lucas centrifugal advance racing distributor at 10 degrees
static, and reinstalled the Weber 45DOCE setup that I have used for a long
time. I replaced the worn out throttle cable with one made from Bicycle
brake cable, correct size and long enough for the RHD installation. The
engine is also equipped with an ANSA LCB header that I installed an oxy
sensor bung into. I'm planning on using a Halmeter to check carb settings.
Hopefully get some comparisons between the Weber and SUs. I painted the
modified Paeco exhaust (cut and pasted to clear the rear Spax shocks) white,
and bolted it back up. For that Ricky Racer sound, I have a straight pipe
to replace the Paeco muffler. It takes about 10 minutes to swap over.
So far I've just bedded the cam in, and driven around the block. The engine
feels peppy, but nothing to write home about. Lots of time needed to sort
out timing and carb settings.
Kelvin.
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