Well, since the cylinder pushes both ways at the same time, it is
self-centering and self-stabilizing under braking, and the shoes are
positively located with the spring pins, so I don't see how the tiny bit
of in-out play behind the snap ring makes any difference, IMO...
Mark and kathy LaPierre had this to say:
>Bill,
> Could it really be this simple? Is it necessary to use an extra shim to
>take up any movement between cylinder and backing plate. The original E
>ring of course is bent to take up any movement between the two areas. Any
>back and forth or side to side movement when the brakes are applied, I would
>think would be detrimental to the effectiveness of your braking
>ability.
> I'm seriously hoping this is a good fix because I too am tired of the
>hit and miss on these snap rings. They usually end up flying clear across
>the garage five or six times before they find there way home. ( Bent and
>scarred beyond recognition, but still effective, so far).
> I did view the suggested web sight on using the vise grips and that does
>work. But the part of putting one end and the center of the snap ring in the
>groove, at the same time, while the other end of said ring dangles off in
>space, doesn't seem physically possible. A snap ring is just that, meant to
>be "snapped" into place not gingerly pried. Correct me if I'm wrong(that
>goes unsaid)
>
>Thanks for this thread, it could cure one of my major head aches in this
>hobby. Mark
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bill Saidel <saidel@camden.rutgers.edu>
>To: Ken Waringa <kwaringa@dynsys.com>
>Cc: MG <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 7:08 AM
>Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Cylinders
>
>
>> Ken,
>> I guess I became a novice regular on this here list when I dealt
>> with those stupid clips. Yes, I ended up using snap rings. They work
>> fine.
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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