The GH block that was in my B - its in the basement now - uses studs
and nuts to hold the main caps. The GV block that's in the car now uses
bolts. AFAIK, the studs and bolts are interchangeable.
You don't _need_ a slide hammer to get the end main caps off. I put a
bolt, 3/8 - 16, as I recall, in the threaded hole in the cap, clamped my
locking pliers on the head of it and pulled, while tapping the bolt
front-to-back with a hammer. No big deal.
Cheers,
CR
Larry Hoy wrote:
>
> I think both of you are on the right track. The main caps are held on by
>bolts, I believe ALL the B series engines and maybe A
> series engines are this way. I think the bolt is a 5/6" fine thread. The
>main caps have a 5/16" fine thread "slide hammer hole" in
> them. Use a 5/16" fine thread bolt (I wouldn't use one of your main cap
>bolts for this!) and weld it to a nut that will screw onto
> your slide hammer. You're in business.
>
> OR you can screw one of the main bearing cap bolts into the main bearing cap
>"slide hammer hole" and use your slide hammer "J" end
> attachment and remove the cap.
>
> Better check my bolt measurements before you start welding!
>
> Larry Hoy
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
> >Behalf Of Bud Krueger
> >Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 7:47 PM
> >To: Stuart MacMillan
> >Cc: Larry Hoy; MG List
> >Subject: Re: Main Bearing Caps MGB
> >
> >
> >Stuart,
> >
> > Perhaps that might be the setup for an early engine. This is a '77 18V
>engine and
> >the caps are held on by bolts.
> >
> >Stuart MacMillan wrote:
> >
> >> On my last rebuild I made a "tool" for this. I used a 5/16 fine thread
> >> bolt and welded a nut on to the head that my slide hammer threads would
> >> screw into. Works great.
> >>
> >> BTW, the caps are held on by studs and nuts, not bolts, in keeping with
> >> the Brits preference for studs on everything.
> >>
> >> Stuart
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