Hay Bullfeathers, ;^)
If the back EMF off the coil gets ya, ya'll kknow it!
Shockingly yers,
CR
Bullwinkle wrote:
>
> Bill:
>
> Although this is probably not your problem, there is no need to use a
> screwdriver to open the points. Using the screwdriver may just ground out the
> points, and consequently you'll get no spark. You can open the points with a
> finger nail as the voltage at the points is only twelve volts and it won't
>"fry
> you."
>
> Going on to the problem:
>
> Did you determine that the coil is getting power? Turn the key on and check
>with
> a VOM meter to see if there is 12 volts between the positive terminal of the
> coil and ground. If you don't have a VOM meter, use a 12V test lamp. Just
> disconnet the wire at the positive terminal of the coil, grasp the terminal
> agains the bulbs copper case and touch the center base terminal of the bulb
>to a
> clean ground with the ignition switch on. If it lights, you've got power to
>the
> coil, then problem is in the coil, distributor, or points. You can also test
> after the coil, and at the points, althought the bulb may be a bit dim because
> of the coil consuming power.
>
> If there is no power, prepare a jumper wire with small aligator clips on each
> end and wire directly from the battery and the positive terminal of the coil.
> Flick the points again to check for spark. On my MGA, you can quite often see
> and hear the points spark when you open them with the finger. If you now have
> power at the points, then there are problems with the ignition switch, or the
> wiring to/from the ignition switch.
>
> The latest wiring diagram for a MGB I have is 1972. Does this car have a
> ballast resitor in the ignition start circuit?
>
> Blake
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