Oddly enough, I've been getting email dropped to the list, I'll try again.
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Kelvin,
Fantastic, thank you. Exactly the type of info I was looking for. A few
questions, interspersed below...
On Thu, 26 Oct 2000, Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
> 1967 Specs.
>
> 372-248 HS4 carb. set Or rebuilt HS4 Carbs. Simpler than HIF and are
> easier to set idle. Also have the correct port to operate.
Excellent, for some reason I had thought the opposite. As the car currently
has a single DGV with a manual choke, is there a manual choke on SU's? or
can I remove the choke cable when I redo the interior?
> 143-110 Replacement 62-71 Distributor. This unit is new, and is based on
> the later distributor body that has better wear and anti short
> characteristics than the original 25D dizzy. The new unit has the same
> characteristics exactly as the original unit. This dizzy will only work
> with the ported HS4 carb.
What's the feeling on Crane/Pertronix style ignition? Does the 143-110 work
well with these? I'm intrigued by the lack of point wear. How about upgraded
coil? The more volts the merrier?
> 8.7:1 Pistons to fit your press fit pin rods. (420-430 or equiv.)
Pardon my ignorance, but I'm still learning the intricacies of engine
internals. Since I'm pretty resigned to have the block in the shop anyway
(And have a possible trade of computer consulting for work at a good local
speed/machine shop) I'd like to possibly have the cylinders bored out.
Burgess seems to like .060 over as a good place to be. (The 2L conversion,
while intriguing, sounds too problematic.)
This is where my knowledge fails me. You cant put stock pistons in a 060
over bore and make up the difference with rings, can you? This is probably a
whole other thread by itself, but is there a real gain from the bore? Or
should I just get the bores cleaned up and be done?
> Dual Row Timing Gears and Chain.
This one was already on the list.
> Camshaft: I like the 222-270 Camshaft that is made by Crane Cams. It is
> the only new billet, high quality cam that I'm aware of. Timed to stock
> spec. it gives more oomf in the low and mid range for around town driving.
> With an advance key it wakens up the upper end for open road motoring (your
> choice).
That's exactly what I was looking for. I'd assume that the 460-398 vernier
adjustable cam meets that requirement as good or better than an advance key?
> The two major areas of problem. (carb. dist.) are replaced with new
> items that work together correctly. Tune the engine right out of the owners
> manual for a 63-67 spec. car.
>
> Watch out on the 3 angle grind of the valves. It is a lot of labor for
> limited street improvement. The more complex grind does flow better, but
> tends to wear out sooner. Typical trade off.
Good point, one I wasnt aware of. I may pass up the three angle grind.
A few other questions. This car has a broken speedometer, and hence,
odometer. It's stopped at 69999. The guy I bought it from bought it and got
transfered out of state and sold it to me two weeks later, and still had the
title from the guy he bought it from. It shows that in 1993, the odometer
had 69999 miles. So I have absolutely no idea how many miles are on this
thing, and have no real way to find out. I'm forced to assume the worst.
Because of that I've taken a "When in doubt, replace it" attitude. I plan on
having to replace valves, springs, etc. If I end up not having to, so much
the better.
Should I look at the 451-805/451-815 alloy head? Being non cast iron, it's
already unleaded safe, so do I need any port/polish work done to it? since
we're talking 1967 spec, do I go for the 805 or 815? (I'd assume 815 because
of my later cylinder block.)
And lastly... all these things that can be removed, does moss sell the
blanking plugs to fill all those holes?
________________________________________________________________________
| Chris Thompson ct@cthompson.com |
| 1973 MGB http://cthompson.com/mg/ |
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