Carl:
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Does anyone know of a possible erratic fuel pump problem that could send
fuel at very low and very high pressures?
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It is absolutely impossible for the original SU fuel pumps to deliver higher
than normal pressure. They can deliver too much fuel if the float bowl needle
is sticking. However if you're using some after market pump which needs a
pressure regulator, than it is possible.
<<<snip>>>
I am wondering if timing could have gradually gone from spot on to very bad to
non-existant .
<<<snip>>>
The engine can be statically timed close enough so that it should run.
REmove the distributor cap with the five leads. Use a VOM meter and check that
the resistance between the contacts inside the cap and plug connector is less
that 30,000 Ohms. If it is greater, then check the cable only. If it is still
greater than 30,000 Ohms, replace the cable assembly.
Replace the high tension lead going from the coil to the cap, back on the coil.
Rotate the engine until the points are closed: i.e. the rubbing block of the
points is on a low spot. Turn the ignition on, but don't crank the engine.
Hold the loose end of the coil cable close to a clean ground on the car and
flick the points open with the other hand. Every time the points open you
should get a spark from the coil wire. If not then the coil isn't getting
power, or the lead going to the points need servicing. Also consider the
possibility that the condensor is bad. I've seen new ones bad. The car will
run without the condensor, but the points will burn badly in a short time.
Rotate the engine until the valves are closed on number one and the ignition
pointer points to TDC. Verify that the rotor would now point to the spark plug
lead that will be connected to number one plug. Unless B engines are different,
the firing order should be 1342.
Check the vacumn and centrifugal advance mechanism are not stuck. I.E. service
the distributor.
Set the timing
If everything checks out you should have spark close enough that the car should
run
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