Neil,
Just a thought, maybe you need to bleed the m/c to get started. If it was
drained, it could be hard to get it started pumping fluid again. I don't
have a servo on my B, but have never bleed brakes any differently on cars
with a servo, so don't see why you should be having problems except that
your lines are full of air and since air compresses so easily, it will take
a lot of effort to get the fluid flowing again. I just helped my
brother-in-law bleed the brakes on his 68 'vette after rebuilding the
calipers and replacing lines. It took forever to get a hard pedal back on
it as well. It also has a servo and 4 pistons per caliper that were full of
air.
Good luck on your newest projects,
Dave 72 B
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Cotty <neilc@apphosting.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, August 12, 2000 7:29 AM
Subject: Bleeding C
Hi all,
Well my Cars finally arrived from the USA this week, after almost 2 years of
waiting!! I'm busy preparing the CGT to register and the Exporter did me a
real favour - not - draining the Brake and Clutch fluid.
Now this CGT has dual brake boosters and I've never had an MG with boosters
in the system so am not sure about how to bleed the system correctly. I
tried my usual method modified per C workshop manual. ie I started at rear
offside brake and used short strokes on the pedal like it says to do in the
Workshop manual. But - I don't hardly see any fluid exiting through the one
way bleed valve/tube I use - and neither at any wheel. Don't understand what
I'm doing wrong here. Never have problems with the A, but that has the
single line system and no boosters of course - much easier.
The system was completely dry to start with. Am I approaching this from the
wrong way, the manual says to do it at the wheels, but do I have to bleed
elsewhere - ie the boosters?!
Any advice would be great! :)
Cheers,
Neil
--
61 A / 70 BGT / 68 CGT/ 56 BN2
URL: http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/
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