--- Randy Trautman <trautman@nwlink.com> wrote:
<SNIP>
> I'm about one week away from putting the engine in
> and I'm curious if
> anyone can give some tips for starting the engine
> the first time. I'm
> thinking about at least filling the oil cooler first
> then turning it
> over without plugs until pressure develops. If you
> have favorite tip
<SNIP>
Randy,
I'm new to the Mg world, so these comments are
general, and others may have some tips more specific
to MG's. I'm assuming you have a new cam.
The cam is the major concern on the first start-up.
You really do not want to turn the engine over at all
except to start it, and you want it to start right up.
It's tricky, but you just want everything to be right,
and if it doesn't start up right away, stop and find
the problem.
You're right, you do want to pre-lube, but you do that
by spinning the oil pump without turning over the
engine. On some engines this can not be done, like in
the Buick 225/231's (related to the rover V8) which
has the oil pump in timing cover. Most cars you can do
it (list?), and you use a tool for the purpose or a
distributor shaft out of an old distributor, less
gear. You spin it with an electric drill. The shop
manual should describe the process. I don't know the
details, because I have a 231 in my other toy. On
models that can not be primed this way, they usually
have you pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly.
Then you need to make sure the timing is right. Crank
the engine by hand until #1 piston is about 6-8
degrees BTDC and eye ball the rotor to where it will
contact the spark tower for the appropriate spark plug
wire, and turn the distributor until it lines up.
Easier said than done. I go conservative (i.e. retard
the timing a few degrees over the factory spec.). You
can feel for compression with the plug out to find the
compression stroke and use the timing mark to find the
degrees (good idea to peak in the plug hole and make
sure you see a piston.
Prime the carb with gas and pump it and eye ball for
some accelerator pump gas squirting into the venturi.
Put the plugs in. Triple check everything. You NEED a
tach for that cam, or you peel 40,000 miles off it
when she starts. Cross you fingers, arms, legs, toes,
eyes, and anything else you can cross and start her up
(uncrossing something to hold the keys). Don't keep
cranking if she doesn't start up.
No idling; no warm-up: Get the RPM's up fast to
1500-2000 and start revving in back and forth from
1500-2500 or whatever the cam manufacturer recommends.
This is very important. If you don't have the
instructions, you should contact the cam manufacturer.
You should really follow their recommendations,
because it varies a lot between different brands and
different profiles. If you absolutely don't know
what's in it, I would go 1500-2500 for 10 minutes. You
should have some cheap labor nearby watching for
leaks, smoke, fire etc., and timing it, so you can
watch the tach. Warn your fire watch if you are
expecting smoke anywhere, like if you have applied
anti-seize to exhaust parts. After the ten minute
break-in, shut it down, have a beer, you deserve one.
Inspect for leaks.
I hope this is what you are asking. I'm sure others
have more specific info., also it should be covered
even in a haynes and the cam instructions are most
important. If it has been sitting a long time since
the new cam was installed, you should, if possible,
drip more snake oil onto the lobes. You can on a V6 or
V8 w/carb. and valley pan pulled, but I don't know
about the I-4 or I-6.
Engine install tips: watch your fingers :-) Be
patient, it doesn't always all line up. Be patient and
think things out. If it isn't going in, go have a
beer, sleep on it.
Good luck!
jon
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