Interesting. The reason you can't do it with an overdrive is probably
overall length; i.e. it gets hung up on the permanent crossmember, unless
you remove the OD first separately, which is messy, and tricky to
reattach (again, this is based on my experience).
I would strongly recommend having a floor jack under the transmission
throughout this procedure. Even if you have forearms like Mark McGuire
the transmission is a serious load to handle from a confined position. Or
a transmission jack could be rented for the occasion.
Remember to remove the shift lever (from the cockpit) first, or it will
hang you up. Also, if your MG has reverse lights, the wires will be
attached to the switch at the top of the transmission -- don't break 'em!
And disconnect the speedometer drive cable.
You will also need to disconnect the clutch arm from the slave cylinder
(remove the pin). Don't leave the slave cylinder dangling from its hose,
either -- tie it up to the frame with wire, out of the way, preferably in
its normal horizontal orientation (or it may drip).
I assume you know about using the clutch alignment tool (or a spare
output shaft). And be sure the car is supported safely on jack stands
(not stacks of blocks or the MG jack).
I think this technique sounds plausible. Doubtless you will run into a
few snags which you can then share for the enlightenment of all. Good
luck.
James Porco had this to say:
>It seems most prefer over the top rather than underneath.
>To add more information, here is the process I was told.
>
>Again, I think the idea is intriguing, but if it is not possible or just
>not safe I'll do it via the engine removal.
>
>The Process:
>You need to screw off the propeller shaft at the Trans end, then take the
>propeller shaft out. You unbolt the crossmember holding the Trans. Unbolt
>the Trans from the engine, unbolt the section at the top of the Trans,
>then turn about one quarter - removing the Trans fluid before this step.
>This will allow you to slide the Trans back about 8-10 inches resting on
>the second crossbember under the front seats - the one that is welded, not
>bolted. Also unbolt the clutch slave cylinder before moving or turning the
>Trans.
>
>I have been under my car and if I can get the car high enough it looks
>like it just might work. My only concern is the weight of the Trans and
>the re-alignment. This is where multiple hands would be helpful. I was
>told do not do this with an overdrive, too many things to unbolt and other
>major problems (not an issue for me).
>
>Again, this was offered as an alternative, I'm just curious if this is
>possible or if anyone has actually done it this way. I know there are
>certain benefits to taking out the engine, but I just want to replace the
>clutch plate and get my car back on the road.
>
>Many thanks
>
>Jim Porco
>1971 BGT (Garaged since last summer) 8-(
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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