Dave,
Someone who is familiar with the two-hammer separation method that the
Moss catalogue describes can have good results, very quickly. One
cringes to contemplate the damage possible with a couple of mis-placed
hammer blows.
Rental shops have a screw-operated separator tool that is nothing more
than a pair of jaws that are forced apart by a large screw that is turned
by a wrench. Using one of these is unlikely to get one into any trouble.
They will nick you for half a day's rent. You will use the thing for
about 30 seconds per tie-rod end. Every neighborhood, or group of LBC
friends should own one.
Another tool is called a "pickle fork" This works OK, but you hammer
it into the joint to effect the separation, so there is greater risk to
the rubber seal.
Bob
On Mon, 29 May 2000 16:17:50 -0700 "Dave Wood" <djw69@idt.net> writes:
> I'm trying to replace my steering rack boots today and using the
> advise in
> the Moss catalog. I can't seem to get the tie rod to separate from
> the
> steering arm. I loosened the tie rod adjuster nut as indicated,
> jacked it
> up a haft inch or so on the nut and beat on the steering rod but no
> luck on
> separating. I don't want to replace the tie rod ends as they appear
> tight
> and their boots are fine. Would it help to unbolt the steering arm?
> Any
> suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I have been pounding as
> close as I
> can get to the tie rod end from the rear. It seems to me that I hit
> it hard
> enough to separate anything not welded, but I am wondering if all of
> the
> shock is been taken by the steering arm rather than the connection?
>
> Dave 72 B
>
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