The contacts can oxydise when not used for a long time - even new pumps come
with a slip of parer that says the points should be lightly filed if it does
not work 'out of the box' and only sent back if that does not work.
'Small and black' sounds to me more like a diode than a capacitor.
Capacitors tend to be lighter in colour and unless physically very small
have capacitance and voltage rating on the side. Diodes sometimes have
writing but because they tend to be physically small usually have a series
of coloured rings rather than writing. If the rings are closer to one end
than the other, or the band at one end is thicker than at the other, that
usually denotes the positive '+' end, i.e. convetional current flows from
supply positive to supply negative through the diode from the unmarked end
to the marked end. However in the pump it is wired to *oppose* the supply
voltage - very important.
You can test a diode with an ohm-meter - it should conduct in one direction
not the other - but a digital should have a 'continuity' or special 'diode'
position otherwise it may indicate a diode is open-circuit when it isn't.
A capacitor can also be tested with ohm-meter by connecting iy first one way
then the other - you should see a small pulse of the needle each time - this
may not work with a digital meter.
Check the continuity of the solenoid winding with either a test-lamp or an
ohm-meter - you should be able to see the two wires under the end-cap, and
check the continuity of the contacts when closed.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Pfau <apfau@ismi.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 3:32 PM
Subject: Fuel Pump - NOT
> Hi All,
> I am getting my 73 GT out of storage after about 8 years of idleness. To
make a long story short, I brought the car home and have started going
through the process of getting it ready to run/drive. On a good note, it
appears to have survived very well (no mice damage!) and every thing looks
good with the exception of a non-operable fuel pump. I've tried tapping on
it and checking power leads but couldn't get it to start. Now I have it on
the bench. The points look good, the armature/pivot throws over properly and
is loose, it seems to not be able to draw a magnet. When I put power to it
nothing, no humming, pumping etc. I've fooled around with the T-series types
but not the newer ones. It also has a small black condensor (it is an
england market car) under the bakelite cover. Is there a way of testing it?
> Any ideas on where to start before I just tear into it willy-nilly? It's
an AUF-300 type.
>
> TIA,
> Alan Pfau
> apfau@ismi.net
>
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