Craig,
I think I would make use of that 1" lip. I would drill 1/8" holes in the
center of the lip every 2 to 3 inches then Clamp the floor panel in place
and weld through the holes to the inner sill. This will simulate a spot type
weld. There is a name for this procedure...yet I can't for the life of me
remember it at this moment. None The less, this will make for a solid floor.
Remember, you're not drilling hole into the inner sill...only through the
lip of the new floor pan.
Good Luck and have fun,
Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.
On Sun, 26 Mar 2000 20:44:05 -0500, Craig D. Niederst wrote:
> The passenger side floor pan on my '71 B needs replacing (thought it
could
> be patched, but there would be more patch there than floor pan). The pan
has
> rusted from the inside down due to water that had gotten into the car. It
> looks like water was definitely sitting along the inner sill wall, and
thus
> has rusted through in some places. In trying to remove the pan, it
appears
> the DPO attempted to repair the floor previously. The DPO's repair was to
> rivet a new lip onto the bottom of the sill area under the car for a 1
foot
> or so length of the pan, and then riveted it to the badly rusted floor
(this
> repair was nicely hidden by undercoating from underneath, BTW). The
> crossmembers under the floor pan are solid, as are the jacking point and
lip
> along the tranny tunnel. The new floor pan I bought is a Steelcraft pan,
and
> it has the 1" or so vertical lip around its perimeter. Since the lip
along
> the sill is in poor shape, would a seam weld attaching this lip to the
inner
> sill wall be enough for a sound floor on the sill side? Also, does the
floor
> pan provide structural strength to the spring hanger? The floor pan
around
> the spring hanger on the passenger side again rusted from the inside down
> (about 1" of the front of the bracket is now visible from inside the
car),
> but the bracket is undamaged and is solidly in place. Does this need
> repaired additionally for structural concerns, or is this just cosmetic?
> BTW, any ideas on how much a welding repair like this should cost? I am
> removing the floor pan my self (or at least trying to), and will be
> providing the new floor pan. TIA
>
> Craig
> '71 B
>
Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.
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