I'd do the clutch anyway a few thousand miles somewhere else might be nice.
Do they make sleves for the cylinder walls for these blocks? If so you might
not need a new block.
Mild performance cams are pretty cheap from NW Import.
I would do they chain and tensioner as well. Since you are in it this far...
The Engine was a maroon originally. (Or as the story goes, "Some Bloody Red!")
On Mon, 6 Mar 2000, Geoffrey Gallaway wrote:
> Well, I took the engine (and transmission) out of the MG on saturday with
> the great help of an experienced person. The pistons, rods, valves and
> everything look original (never been replaced). All four pistons had
> broken rings and one had a huge gouge in the cylinder wall where a
> retaining ring flew or popped of and ripped the wall up. I just hope that
> when the shop bores the cylinders out they dont find the gouge goes beyond
> the .060 mark (as thats the biggest piston and rings sizes i know of), if
> they do I guess I need a new block. The camshaft looks elegant, I still
> need to check the rods for wear. I also broke the distributor guide ring
> during removal but the guy who helped me has an extra. The clutch looks
> perfect so that has been replaced by the DPO.
>
> Non-Engine related problems I discovered:
>
> * The hand brake doesn't move, up or down, whats broken and where to cause
> that?
> * What color to paint everything, what color was it (if it was) originally?
> * Should I change the chain and tensioner?
> * Should I change the rod bolts as the originals might have stretch?
> * Bronze or standard valve guides?
>
> Geoff
>
> --
> Geoffrey Gallaway || The only certainty is that nothing is certain.
> geoffeg@sloth.org ||
> D e v o r z h u n || -- Fortune Cookie
>
>
|