Well, given that I just finished "learning" to do paint and body work on my
car last month, I'll throw in my .02 worth.
Some things I learned about body work:
1) there is NO substitute for practice
2) a body panel can never be TOO perfect, and it will almost always look
worse with the top (shiny) coat on - as compared to just the primer.
3) Be sure to buy "professional quality materials from a professional
supplier" - they are excellent sources of information as well ... some place
offer "hobbyist discounts" so it never hurts to shop around.
4) Stick with one brand and STAY WITH IT - don't mix unless its ABSOLUTELY
necessary - compatibility isn't often a problem, but when it is, it's a
really, really, really, bad thing.
5) Be SURE to use a wax and silicone remover BEFORE you start to sand. If
you don't you'll sand it right into the paint and likely have a paint
adhesion problem.
6) Buy an air powered DA sander (about $60). In the first 5 minutes of using
it, it will be clear why all body shops have a lot of that particular piece
of equipment hanging around
7) Don't strip your car "to the metal" unless you have to ... there are
often all kinds of evils/sins that await you under the old paint - once
theyre exposed, its too late, you'll HAVE to deal with them
8) Don't let anyone convince you that you can weld a body panel efficiently
with ANYTHING other than a GAS SHIELDED system - MIG or TIG.
What I learned about painting
1) Practice, practice, practice
2) there is NO substitute for practice - see # 1
3) the cleaner your environment, the better the final product will be
(truly, it can never be too clean) - I'll spend the extra money next time
and build a downdraft booth
4) Dupont paint is horrible ... PPG paint is wonderful (yes, I basically
ended up doing my car twice because of the Dupont paint)
5) Basecoat/clearcoat is truly the way to go
6) I used a normal high-end Devilbiss suction feed gun, but next time, I'll
get an HVLP unit with a turbine.
7) Be sure your air supply is clean and dry AT ALL COSTS. One drop of water
blown through the gun will create a headache that a case of advil won't fix.
The systems to clean and dry air are expensive
8) In addition to the clean/dry system on the compressor, use a disposible
filter "at the gun" (about $10 for two).
9) Be sure to use a blow gun to get all of the dust from the cracks and
recesses. If you don't, your spray gun will blow it out when you paint and
it will end up in the paint
10) Be sure to use "tak rags" to clean the car just prior to shooting it. If
the surface isn't PERFECTLY clean and dry, it WILL show up in the end.
11) Don't even THINK of painting with a compressor that is marginal on the
CFM requirements.
12) An air-fed, full face respirator is nice, but it IS possible to paint
with a "two-pak" (urethane) paint with a cartridge mask
13) Paint with a urethane paint, the only way to get a decent job with an
enamel is to use a hardener, with adds icocyanate to the paint, just like a
urethane. There is no comparison between a urethane paint job and anything
else - unless, I suppose, you wanted to powder coat your entire car.
Urethanes are also impervious to almost everything - petroleums, mild acids,
etc. - which make them wonderful for engine compartments.
14) Be sure to pay attention to what "painted surface" you can see when the
car is fully assembled so that you don't "fail to paint" something that will
be seen after re-assembly
15) Follow the paint instructions (mixing, flash time, etc) TO THE LETTER -
use disposible plastic mixing pails and be sure to filter the paint before
you put it in the cup
The bottom line here is that it is unlikely that you will be able to prep
and paint your car for less than you can have it painted by a professional
(YOUR TIME must be figured as well as materials). Expect to pay about
$300-350 for primer and paint using a PPG clearcoat system, plus whatever is
necessary to do the body work and prep the car ... plus the time it takes
you to "lear how to do it" and "actually do the work".
I chose to do my car because it was a skill that I really wanted to acquire.
Its not perfect, but I learned more doing it than I could have ever gotten
from a) talking about it b) a book c) a video d) etc, etc, etc. so, in the
end, I'm thrilled and have a great deal of satisfaction. Good luck with your
project.
~alan
'71 B
PS - and the answer is "yes" I would do it myself again in a heartbeat :)
Reply to:
Alan Lott
GTA, Auburn Univeristy
Department of Rehabilitation and Special Education
My Office- (334) 844-2092
Department- (334) 844-5943
Fax- (334) 844-2080
The only good way to learn is through a course put on by a paint supplier,
since you really need hands-on experience, and someone watching over your
shoulder the first couple of times you pick up the gun. Oh, and be aware
that every type of paint, sprays differently. To a lesser degree, this is
|