MGB Aluminum heads (Non crossflow): An interesting proposition. Although
the couple hundred dollar price difference is a set back, has anyone tried
one of these? I do like the thought of better heat transfer and better
porting. Does anybody know if they designed the head to be aluminum ie.
larger head stud holes to keep it from warping? I do think that a 20Lb
weight difference would be noticable. Heck we used to take the spare tyre
out and leave the girl friend at home when we went racing. Every little
bit helped.
One time I remember a friend spent a couple of hours tuning his bugeye for
max performance and was having fun chirping the tires. He told me to hop
in and and we went for a ride so he could impress me. After a few minutes
he told me to get out as I was too heavy and his power to weight ratio went
into the toilet and he couldnt chirp the tires anymore.
PCV Valve: This valve only serves to act as a one way valve (very
important) and to only open under a light load (closed at idle). You
should be able to use anything modern that comes close. Later carbs did
away with it and plumbed it directly into the carb body somewhere (I
think). I kinda like the original big beast, and its easy to repair too
(new diaphram is a couple of bucks). I used one of those off the shelf
ones for a time (metal can thingy I found in a bucket of parts) and seemed
to have no detrimental affects.
Tired flashers: Definately low voltage problem. Check your battery
voltage, it should be at least 12 volts and more like 14. Change the
flasher can (or short it out and see if the lights burn bright) change (or
clean) all of your turn signal bulbs and make sure the lenses havnt filled
up with water and oxidized. Different manufacturers of bulbs end up with
different resitances too. If your are bored check the contacts in the
directional indicator stalk (they oxidize too), best way is to pull out the
plug under the dash and "Jump" the left or right turn circuits and see if
it flashes better. Clean every ground you can find (there is one in the
trunk that is suspect).
My own trouble shooting method is clean all contacts first, and tug on
electrical connections (how many connectors have I had pull apart in my
hand?), than I use an alligator clip jumper to isolate various components
until I get the required result.
I actually worked on my own MG this weekend too. Is it possible to rebuild
the low brake pressure warning switch in the engine compartment? Mine is
leaking fluid from the electrical connector. I guess that means I have low
pressure.
I figured out why my clutch had so much pedal travel in it. The hole in
the pedal had elongated and was within 1/32" of tearing out completely!!
Nothing a little welding can't fix.
Anybody know where I can get plastic/fiberglass fenders for my 68 B? I have
only seen the steel Repros and original Leyland stuff in Vicky brit and
Moss here inthe States.
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