You did say this was a rust-free (they never really are, you know) car for
$1000? If so, that's what you're paying for, the rust free (see above) tub.
On this list I have heard time and again: It's the body that counts. You
can get all the mechanical parts used off of rusty bodies that have fallen
apart and aren't drivable anymore. I bought a rust-free (they never really
are, you know) Midget that needed all the hydraulics replaced, and a ton of
little stuff, but I'm not afraid to put some money into it because I know
the car will still be here in a few years.
I also came into my Midget with very minimal mechanical skills. Now I have
learned to do a whole lot more, including some big money-saving work on the
modern cars we have. Go for it, if it wasn't an adventure, it wouldn't be
fun, right? Buy the car, drive it for now, and start accumulating the bits
to make it into what you want. An earlier spec engine (cheaper than
rebuilt) and carbs, the sway bars from a later rubber-bumper, etc.
Join a club, find some LBC buddies, and you'll be getting greasy, knowing
the satisfaction of working with your own hands, in no time.
The first time you take a downhill left hand curve on a rolling country
road, you'll know a new kind of crazy. :-)
Phil Vanner
Mk1 Midget (new fuel lines yesterday - the old one only lasted 38 years,
what a rip.)
-----Original Message-----
From: MMich99551@aol.com [SMTP:MMich99551@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 3:29 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Crazy II
I just got back from taking the 75 MGB to the mechanic for a pre-buy check.
He concurred with the list that I need to go back to the SU carbs. He also
did a compression test and then a "wet" test which revealed an engine
rebuild
was needed. The compression results were 115, 85, 115, & 95. He also said
a
clutch replacement would be needed. The price tag: $3,000.00.
I think I am going to continue my search for another car, what is your
opinion?
Thanks, (for your patience with a newbie)
Mark Michael
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