Well, I just helped a pal remove both M/Cs on a '69 B earlier today, so
it should be fresh in my mind. Not to mention that I rebuilt the brake
M/C in my '66 2 weekends ago (this is why we love them so, no?). In my
'66 I removed and replaced the pathetic little jobber without even
removing the pedal box, but I would guess yours (being dual line) is way
too deep to get away with that. But I don't see why you can't remove the
clevis pin to the clutch pedal, and then undo the two bolts holding the
clutch M/C at the front of the pedal box, and pull off the rubber seal
from the piston rod, and just leave the clutch M/C in position while you
remove the pedal box with the brake M/C atttached... except, UH-OH!
(here's the rub!) the clutch line is going to trap the pedal box so you
won't be able to move it more than an inch or so. So you're going to have
to disconnect the clutch line no matter what, it seems.
:-(
I would suggest making sure you have a plug that will thread into the
line fitting on the cluch M/C so you don't get any air in there, and try
to cap the line as well. At least it's a short run that doesn't take too
much bleeding...
Oh well...
Max
P.S. I notice that Bill, <Penny & Bill Meyer, pplusb@northlink.com> in
another post, was positive you *could* pull this off. I wondered if he
might be thinking of the earlier, single-line M/Cs (as in my '66). I was
just looking at that long piston sticking out of the '69 M/C and
wondering how you could ever get it out of the pedal box without totally
disassembling it, so we didn't even try. But maybe you can...
Of course, we hadn't even bothered to look at the procedure in Bentley,
either.
Dan Ray had this to say:
>Do I HAVE to disconnect the clutch M/C line in order to remove the Brake
>M/C?
>As I stare at the various fasteners keeping the brake M/C in place...I'm
>wondering, since the clutch is working fine -- why disconnect and go through
>the bleeding process on that separate system?
>Both Haynes and Bentley say to disconnect the clutch line, but they ALSO
>said to remove the entire distributor to get the starter motor out -- and
>that was untrue. (only had to remove the cap to get at the top bolt)
>Has anyone ever done this job without having to bleed the clutch system?
>If I must get the clutch line out of the way, then I might as well pull the
>whole thing and clean/paint that dismal corner of the engine bay!
>TIA
>
>Dan
>73 B
>
>
>
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
Runs great,
looks particularly bad since some SUV clown backed into it.
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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