mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

Fwd: mgs@autox.team.net digest #1465 Thu Jan 28 02:05:03 M

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Fwd: mgs@autox.team.net digest #1465 Thu Jan 28 02:05:03 M
From: Florrie & Allen Bachelder <bachldrs@swva.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:43:36 -0400
From: Cullit@aol.com
Return-path: <Cullit@aol.com>
To: mgs-owner@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: mgs@autox.team.net digest #1465 Thu Jan 28 02:05:03 M
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:19:54 EST
Mime-Version: 1.0

Hi,
   I own a 69mgcgt with a electrical problem. The car was stripped down,
painted, engine brakes, suspension, and floor pans renewed. If I want to start
it I have to attach an accessory ground from the battery to the back bolt
holding the starter to the engine. My dash has no electricity. While cleaning
wires under the dash with emery(don't get excited only the bullets) I heard a
loud pop. I could find nothing burned. I find no chafed wires. If I remove a
double green lead from the near side of the lower fuse, it doesn't blow.
Meanwhile I'm the owner of a very sweet primrose CGT that can't pass
inspection. I also own a 71bgt daily driver and a 74b freshly rebuilt where
the electricity can't find the right side of the car(no horn, no r blinkers,
no fuel gauge, no r headlight, drains the battery if left connected-come to
think of it almost identical to the "C"). Does anybody have any suggestions?
Others have suggested I sell but with the money invested and the fact that
they're not right I'd lose my shirt. Thanks Phil        (pcullit@aol.com)

--part0_918430359_boundary--

Phil -

First, it sounds like you either have a defective/missing ground strap, or
when your battery was re-installed in your freshly painted shell, the
ground lead on the battery was bolted to that fresh paint - thus making
poor contact - if any at all.  If some things work, but the starter does
not, you may have electrical continuity, but insufficient contact to carry
the heavy load the starter demands.  Disconnect the battery ground lead
from where it attaches to the shell(near or in the battery box) and scuff
some of that new paint down to bare metal (this may require tranquilizers!)
and reconnect the lead to shiny bare metal - tight.  Also check all grounds
to the shell - everywhere those black leads bolt or screw to the shell -
like inside the trunk there's a bunch that attach inside to the license
plate bracket bolt.  ' Think there's another on the firewall but I can't
remember - and besides, my experience is only with Bs, not  Cs.  Otherwise
- get out your voltmeter or testlight.  Is there power from the starter
solonoid to ground?  Next, from the  brown leads on the fuse box?  Keep
checking - tracing downstream until you find the point where there should
be power but isn't.

With fresh paint, my guess is a faulty ground, but especially if your
wiring harness was in the car when it was painted, you would do well to
continue what you've been doing: clean every harness bullet  on the whole
car.  Replace all the bullet connectors with new ones - particularly the
double bullet connectors which can totally disintegrate in 20-30 years.

This may be frustrating,  but it is actually a simple problem.  All you
have to do is find out where it is.  Your test light, if well grounded
might indeed show that the entire harness is fine.  In which case, the
problem is definitely one of those grounds.  ' Haven't a clue about the
loud pop - maybe one of the pro's on the list will know.  If it was an
electrical component, sooner or later, you'll find out. :^(

Good luck and keep us posted!

Allen


Allen H. Bachelder  =iii=<
Sinking Creek Home for Wayward MGs
New Castle, VA 24127
USA
540/544-7333



<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>