Carl,
The undercoat sounds ideal for that environment, and it sounds as
though your careful attention would make it work perfectly.
The bad examples of cracking I have seen have been places where the
undercoat must have been 3/16 inch thick, and perhaps that is too thick
for it to expand and contract without cracking. My '75 MGB had
sand-filled cracked undercoat in many places, but each was in an area of
this thick application.
When I have used it, I have tried to put it on just thick enough to be
completely opaque, plus a tiny bit more, so that the total thickness is
not much. All the undercoat I have used seems to have worked well on
exterior surfaces, and I spray Waxoyl into the cavities.
Bob
On Sat, 06 Feb 1999 15:55:33 -0500 Carl Elliott <grunt2@adelphia.net>
writes:
>I live on the coast, Sand is blown so hard that it removes the paint
>on mail
>boxes or just about everything you leave outside, Salt you can taste
>it in
>the air, I under coat, And touch it up every year or so, The
>rubberised under
>coat expands and contracts with the cold and heat and works well
>here. I'm 1/4 mile from the beach. We loose windshields like crazy
>from the pebbles on the roads but the under coat hangs tough.
>Carl E.
>
>Bob Howard wrote:
>
>> Carl,
>> In this neck of the woods, CT, undercoat is the subject of much
>debate.
>> Some believe that it is, indeed, a good thing since it protects
>the
>> metal well, doesn't chip off from stones, and dampens sound.
>> The other side feels that, while those points are valid, that the
>> undercoat tends to shrink and split, almost invisibly, then traps
>dirt,
>> salt and water in the split where it is not visible, thus the
>> undercoating eventually causes more problems than it solves.
>> On my cars I have found places where the undercoat is going to
>remain
>> attached to the metal until or after the end of time, and places
>where it
>> has peeled back and entrapped moisture and dirt, these places being
>> almost adjacent.
>> It would be interesting to see if we could get enough reports to
>> develop objective conclusions.
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On Fri, 5 Feb 1999 16:19:22 -0500 "Carl Elliott"
><grunt2@adelphia.net>
>> writes:
>> >If you go to bare metal use a self etching primer, Krylon makes it
>in
>> >dark
>> >red, muddy brown, Polys are also sold in spray cans. Some great
>spray
>> >jobs
>> >have been done with cans. Under the car I would use under coat,
>Keeps
>> >the
>> >sound down and was an original option. Just allow plenty of time
>for
>> >the
>> >primer to dry ,and the recomended times on the cans between coats
>of
>> >paint.
>> >Good Luck Carl E.
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Tim Nagy <nagy@duq.edu>
>> >To: mgb <mgs@autox.team.net>
>> >Date: Friday, February 05, 1999 3:47 PM
>> >Subject: What type of paint
>> >
>> >
>> >>Hey all!
>> >>
>> >>If you have been following my other comments, I've removed my
>front
>> >>suspension and am in the process of cleaning, repainting and
>> >rebuilding
>> >>all the parts. I'm using a combination of a good flat file, wire
>> >wheel,
>> >>and a sanding disc to clean off the years of neglect to get to a
>> >shiny
>> >>bare metal surface.
>> >>
>> >>Admittedly, this will be a garage queen for use on the weekends
>and
>> >>sunny day. Hopefully, I won't be driving in too many nasty
>> >conditions.
>> >>I just don't have the courage to commit myself as a daily "B"
>driver
>> >>again...once was enough.
>> >>
>> >>I'll be using a spray can primer, probably Krylon, but what should
>> >the
>> >>finish coats be done with. would a spray can finish be durable,
>or
>> >do I
>> >>need to go to a pro for a polyurethane type finish?
>> >>
>> >>Tim
>> >>
>> >>72 B-in pieces...
>> >
>> >
>
>
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