Hi Andy,
More about this subject was to see a few weeks ago.
Check the following:
brushes of the motor
dust contamination on the fan itself - loosinging it's functionality
loss of voltage feeding the motor - the switch maybe poor connecting or the
infamous bullet connectors in the complete path may also create resistance.
Another Dutch lister - Rene van Maanen - even fitted a relay in order to
avoid loss of voltage, a remidy which appeared to be working well.
Cheers,
Hans
MGBGT '71
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Errington [SMTP:ame@synaptics.com]
> Sent: Monday, February 01, 1999 19:02
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Heater blower motor
>
> Hi,
>
> yesterday after reassembling the heater unit I had a healthy blast of warm
> air. Today the air is warm but not exactly blasting. I think I have an
> intermittent problem with the blower motor. I get the screaming banshee
> effect when I turn it on, but that goes away eventually, so I'm used to
> it.
>
> I suspect either slippage between the motor shaft and the fan, or the
> bearings are worn and sometimes fall into a good configuration with little
> resistance (good airflow) or into a bad configuration with some binding
> (bad
> airflow).
>
> Today's question is: there are two nuts on the top side of the motor body
> (on the face next to the fan. There are two blank heads on the bottom
> face
> of the motor body (on the face that is in the engine bay). If I undo the
> two nuts at the top I assume the motor will come apart and I can, ahem,
> examine it. If I do this however am I going to be all sad when all the
> parts fall out and roll into inaccessible corners of the workshop?
>
> I am hoping to make it all work perfectly as it was yesterday which made
> me
> feel sooo good (not to mention sooo warm). Can't get the %#$@* heater
> flap
> control back in the dash though...
>
> Andy
> --
> '69 B
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