In a message dated 12/21/98 5:36:00 PM Pacific Standard Time,
neilc@tradesrv.com.au writes:
> Someone recommended I loosen this whilst the engine is still in the car. OK
- with a metre pipe
> extension on a breaker bar, when I turn the bar there is considerable
spring
> like tension coming from the crank - with the car in first - the gearbox
> doesn't sound too healthy at all. If I apply a lot of force there's a clunk
> or two from the box (well back that way anyways), making me wonder how
> healthy it is to put so much stress on the box.
You are probably winding up the clutch, and the noises could be the rear
suspension, and brakes taking the strain.
I haven't tried with all my
> might to loosen the bolt because of this 'spring' like tension I'm feeling
-
> I figured I'd ask before I stuffed something! <G>. I'm turning the bolt
> anti-clockwise, I've whacked back the locking plate. I also seem to run out
> of purchase because the shaft is turning and not locking, if you catch my
> drift, the pipe under full tension gets close to the fender not leaving me
> much if any room to loosen the bolt.. All of the pistons are out of the car
> btw so less friction going on here.
>
> Am I doing something wrong? <G> Whoops I mean, what aren't I doing wrong.
> <VBG>
Well, at this point you probably have three choices
1. Remove the engine and take with crank still in to a repair shop to have
them use a LARGE impact to loosen the bolt. (this is the safest choice)
2. Wedge the crank with a block of wood or large screwdriver and then go to
full atomic power on your breaker bar. Hint: you may wish to trade in your 1
metre bar for a 2 metre version, or slide the Great Ceremonial Cheater Pipe
over your metre bar. <G's to Dick O'Kane> (The possibility exists that you
could crack the block if you choose the wrong place to wedge against. Also
using full atomic power on a cheater pipe can cause thing to break, BE
CAREFUL!) BTW I have used this procedure more than once with no ill effects
however YMMV <G>)
3. THIS ONE CAN WORK VERY WELL BUT IS VERY DANGEROUS!!! PROCEED AT YOUR OWN
RISK!! (And please no flames) Reinstall starter, and connect batteries.
Place your socket and bar so that the bar is wedged against the ground on the
left (seen from drivers seat) side of the car. CLEAR THE AREA IN FRONT OF THE
FIREWALL.
Bump the starter. The torque and gearing of the starter will force the screw
to unscrew.
BTW I once did this to a AH 3000 that was so tight it picked up the entire
front of the car for a moment before coming loose.
So Neil name your poison, and good luck.
Rick Ewald
67 B roadster
99 Volvo S 80 T-6
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