Tyson, you need to talk to a good machinist. Its possible to bore and
sleeve the bore back to stock dimension, or to overbore and have a plunger
made to fit, but the cost may be prohibitive. Maybe you can just hone the
bore to allow the valve plunger to move freely. I believe that the bore is
not critical so long as the plunger can't cock sideways and jam. The
sealing takes place at the angled surface at the end of the plunger.
Perhaps you need to go to another block. John
Tyson Sherman wrote:
> I'm back after a few months off the list. If you remember from this
> summer, my oil pressure relief valve got stuck in the block. I had to
> remove the engine and drill into the valve and pry it out with a
> crowbar.
>
> Well now it's stuck again. I'm afraid the bore in the block is messed
> up, like like it's scored or widened. One day I was driving the B (76)
> to school and taking off from a red light. Then the pressure, instead
> of relieving itself at 75psi, shot to about 100 when I took off, and
> stayed there at any rpms above 1500. I put put-ed home after class that
> day (2000rpms in 4th, about 80psi) and the car hasn't moved since.
>
> So I'm faced with a problem. I'm going to pull the engine again next
> week when I get the car trailered home. Is there any way I can get an
> oversized valve made, and have that part of my block bored?
>
> This engine ran incredibly well both before the valve failed the first
> time, and after I reassembled the engine. Great compression, and great
> oil pressure. I don't really want to take the engine from my 74.5 GT
> unless I have to, and I don't want to have to buy a used block. When I
> took the head off of this one, there were no ridges at the tops of the
> pistons, and very little wear on the bearings.
>
> Any help is appreciated. I start working on the car Wednesday. Thanks!
>
> --
> Tyson Sherman
> mts3@ra.msstate.edu
> ICQ# 10494960
> http://www.tecinfo.com/~tsherman
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