Skye, My factory B manual gives no specs, so I would aim the nose at a garage
door or the like about 20 feet away, set beams parallel and slightly to the
right side, low beam height lower than height at the car[downward] and then try
it on the road, adjust from there. John
Skye Poier wrote:
> Hullo!
>
> Well I got the new headlight buckets in - I ended up drilling the center
> out of the snapped-off bolts and then putting in metal screws. Solid.
> The metal ring behind the fender seems to be spot-welded in and I didn't
> feel like getting another noise complaint whacking away with a chisel.
> Learned a lot about drilling out screws, but I digress.
>
> So, how many feet in front of the car should the dipped headlights be?
> Haynes is ever-so-helpful - "turn the screw on the side to move the
> beam left or right and the screw on the top to move it up and down" -
> thanks I couldn't have figured that one out. Did a search on the net,
> got the usual "you should have a professional mechanic adjust your
> headlights" yeah I'm sure you need a PhD to turn those two screws - but
> I did find something about the MOT in the UK and that the dipped beam
> should be 15 degrees. My trig is a bit rusty, but the headlights are
> a whopping 2 feet off the ground, so for a 15 degree angle they should
> land 7.5 feet in front of the car. That certainly doesn't seem right.
>
> So, anyone?
>
> Skye
>
> PS: Now that I have the new bowls in, the trim rings won't fit back on.
> And I thought this was going to be a 2 hour job. Its taking me all week :)
>
> --
> 1966 MGB GHN3L-70307 __,__\__ Finger for
> The MGB Experience http://www.mgb.bc.ca/ (_o____o_) PGP key
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