Kelvin wrote:
>I just about got beaten to the punch. Very >briefly, early (pre 72)
MG's used a coil
>(DLB101) that ran happily on full
>operating voltage (9-15 volts). From
>approx 72 on to meet the emmission
>cycle requirements they went with a
>lower voltage coil (DLB102) that under
>cranking conditions received full battery
>voltage. Under running conditions the
>coil was powered through a resistive
>wire. (Note, not a ballast resistor). Many
>American cars have been using this
>system for years. It allows a hotter spark >under cranking conditions
when the
>battery's voltage is drawn down by the
>load of the starter motor.
>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 The important thing is that the
>Lucas Sports Coil is designed to replace
>the DLB101 12 volt coil in an unballasted >system only. If you are
using the DLB105 >sport coil in a vehicle newer than 72 you
>must bypass the resistive wire. If not the
>coil will not be delivering to it's full
>potential.
>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Lucas does not (as far as I can
>tell) offer a high performance coil for a
>ballasted system.
>Hope this answers any questions.
Kelvin,
SO the Lucas Sports Coil can handle the full voltage without getting hot
and burning out, like a normal coil would. The reason I asked is
because I had to install a ballast resistor in my '74 Midget (resistance
wire was, apparently, not working) because my coils (went through 3 of
them) kept overheating and burning out. I'm guessing I can use the
Sports Coil (which looks neat) and remove the ballast resistor (which
looks unsightly).
-NORY
Don't assume that because you have found one problem, you have found the
ONLY problem.
'71 5-speed Midget (my new baby)
'74 Midget & '71 parts car
'94 Ford Ranger
'86 Ford Escort
'89 Ford Probe
'96 North American Shepherd
'94 Tigger Cat/Wheel Chock
'98 White Cat/Wheel Chock #2 (Lucy Fur)
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