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John:
Based on my experience of this weekend my previous c0mments need to be
corrected and expanded!
First, the correction: If you are replacing the rear axle wheel seals
and/or bearings on a BANJO type axle (wire wheels, not sure about disk
wheels) you need to have available the 1 61/64 inch diameter octagonal
socket "Churchill Tool." This is not applicable to the tube type axle.
The note in the Moss MGB catalog is on the same page as the banjo axle
description but is not specific to the banjo axle in its wording. A $25
plus second day air mistake!
Second, the expansion: What you do need to remove the hub nut on a tube
type axle (wire wheels, not sure about disk wheels) is a tool for a six
sided nut that is apparently 1 3/8 inches (may be 1 5/16 inches, have
not gotten anything on it yet!) that will fet inside the hub tube that
is approximately 1 7/8 inches inside diameter. Sears does not sell a
1/2 inch drive socket in this size. They sell a 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 inch
socket. (1 1/2 catalog only in my area.) I've checked a couple of
hardware stores and not found it. Have not checked tool suppliers such
as Snap-On, etc. Sockets in 3/4 inch drive are made in 1 3/8 size but
are usually too large an O.D. to fit inside the hub tube!
Solution? I went cruising through a Pep Boys Auto Parts store too see
what I could find that might work. I came up with a Lisle Forward Axle
Nut Socket, 34 mm, part number 39750, that looked like it may work by
rough in store measurement with a ruler. (34 mm is between 1 5/16 and
1/3/8 so it will be a little loose or require some file work on the hex
opening) WHen I tried it I found its O.D. was too large to fit down the
hub tube, by measurement about 30 thousandths too large! I plan to have
a machinist turn down the O.D. by this amount too hopefully get a tool
that will work. It is fairly thisk wall so it should still take the 180
ft. lbs. of torque the nut requires when replaced.
I'll follow up with more info - if it works, or not.
Bill Henry
'72 MGB-GT, et.al.
Baltimore MD
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Message-ID: <35E0E6D8.210D@bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 23:06:48 -0500
From: Bill Henry <wohenry@bellatlantic.net>
Reply-To: wohenry@bellatlantic.net
Organization: O.Henry's
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To: John77577@aol.com
CC: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: replacing axle seals and bearings
References: <87c25d25.35e02439@aol.com>
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John77577@aol.com wrote:
>
> Can someone give me some details on replacing leaky axle seals and bearings on
> a tube style diffirential in my B? Can both sides be done in one day, or
> should I plan on laying the car up a while.
>
> any help appreciated
>
> john77577@aol.com
> 64B
John:
I've done this on an '57 MGA and am in the midst of doing it on my '72
B-GT. First thing, unless someone has another way you'll need a hub nut
socket, or "Churchill tool" as illustrated on p.30 of the current Moss B
catalogue. I haven't identified any replacement for this 1 61/64 eight
sided socket! Once you have that and the required parts it should be
fairly straight forward, depending on rust, etc. You do have to
disconnect the rear wheel cylinders to remove the back plate and get to
the seals and bearings. If you don't know the history of the wheel
cylinders you may want to consider replacing them while you are there.
My experience is those "clips from hell" that hold the wheel cylinders
on are easier to deal with when the back plate is off the car! BOth
sides should be able to be done in a day with a little good luck!
Bill Henry
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