Nina - what you so accurately described is one of the two clamps that
actually hold the speedo into the dash. They slide over the posts on the
back of the speedo (wide end first), then the knurled nuts secure them in
place. If I remember correctly, there'll be a black ground wire with an
"eye" that goes on after one of the clips before you put the nut on.
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
-----Original Message-----
From: ccrobins <ccrobins@ktc.com>
To: imscience@juno.com <imscience@juno.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, August 23, 1998 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: speedometers
>Well, now that you mention it:
>
> I ahve found out that you CAN recalibrate a speedo in a limitied
>fashion. I did it when I made one good one out of two bad ones by
>swapping parts around in a couple of 1280 rpm speedos. One of them had
>a bad odometer, the other had a bad speedo. Anyhoo I mated up the good
>parts but the speedo read ~10% high. On my units, the speedo needle is
>a press fit on the shaft coming out of the rotating drum and the drum
>can be rotated by hand, form the side, when the instrument is out of the
>case. There is a clock spring behind the instrument's face that
>provides tension for the drum to rotate against. The spring tension
>increases as the speed reading increases. The drum on mine has a dab
>of black ink on its edge that shows from the side when the needle is at
>0. I found that I could fine tune the reading by removing the needle
>while holding the drum stationary, then rotating the drum a bit and
>reinstalling the needle. More tension to lower the reading and
>vice-versa. It was strictly trial and error - change the tension,
>reinstall it, go drive it, etc. - and I had to tweak it several times
>but it reads correctly now.
>
> This is just for info. I'll take no responsibility if you break it
>trying this but it worked for me.
>
> Charley Robinson
> '69 B
>
>
|