I'd like to add a few of my experiences to this story. =20
I experienced a lot of confusion and headache when I recently replaced =
my front and rear springs on my 72 B. After mounting new stock springs =
on the front and rear, the rear of the car was approx. 2.5" higher than =
the front. I figured this would level out as the springs wore in. Six =
months later, the whole car had settled, but there was still about a 2" =
difference. =20
Upon consulting Moss about this, they informed me that they have been =
having reports of problems with spring heights for the rear being too =
high, and now even have a note on their computers regarding this =
problem. They are now recommending that owners re-arch their salvagable =
rear springs rather than replace them. Nice of them to tell me now! =
Unfortunatly, my old spings were beyond hope. The solution for this has =
been to mount the 1" lowered rear springs on the back, with stock =
springs on the front. These springs acutally give a more stable, firmer =
ride, and the car is only about 1/2" higher in the rear now that they =
have settled in a bit. I suspect the car will level almost completely =
by next spring.
Anyone else have an experience like this?
-----Original Message-----
From: ccrobins <ccrobins@ktc.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 12:53 AM
Subject: Installing new rear springs in a B.
>Hi all,
>
> I promised to publish before and after installation ride heights for
>my B roadster after I installed new Moss-supplied (George) 6-leaf rear
>springs. Here they are:
>
>
>
>Driver's Side Passenger Side
>
>Before: 21 7/8" 22"
>
>After: 23 3/4" 23 7/8"=20
>
> The above with 165R-14's at 32 PSI.
>
> Caution: I found out that these ride heights vary as a fct of how
>hard you bounce the rear of the car before measuring. Also, cutting
>the wheels hard changes the car's stance. No kidding! =20
>
> Best to say that the car's rear ride height has been increased by
>approximately 2". Now I can get over the curb at the end of my =
driveway
>without dragging the muffler!
>
> Doing the job is a piece of cake. The car needs to be on jack stands
>a coupla feet off the floor and a jack is needed to compress the
>springs. My rebound straps are functional so the axle didn't need to =
be
>supported when the old springs were removed. I supported it at first
>but saw that it wasn't necessary later. YMMV.=20
>
> The trick is to install the spring to the front eyebolt first. Then =
a
>block is put at the rear of the frame, under the rear shackle area, for
>the spring to ride on, then a jack is put under the spring center and
>the spring is compressed. It lengthens as it's compressed, enabling =
the
>rear shackles and bushings to be installed and tightened. Care must be
>taken here, there's a lot of energy stored in those compressed springs!
>I'm an experienced mechanic, know how to apply leverage safely as I
>can. Don't do this job unless you have the equipment and knowledge to
>do it right. =20
>
> I removed only the front eye bolts, the axle U-bolts and associated
>hardware and the rear shackles. I've seen a lot of written procedures
>that direct one to remove many more parts but that's all I found
>necessary to remove.
>
> I spent an entire day removing and installing the driver's side
>spring. I did the other side the next morning in less than 3 hours.=20
>Nothing like knowing what you're doing.
>
>
> Charley Robinson
> `69 B CBR that now looks like a preying Mantis!
>
>
>
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